After 16 months of ownership, I decided it was time to replace the seals in the toilet. What happens after they age (and these seals are likely 2002 originals) is that they don’t hold water in the bottom of the toilet anymore. This isn’t all that big of a deal, but it does contribute to smells…in the case of this toilet and RV not that big of a problem, but happens occasionally. It’s taken quite a while to get around to it because of the lack of necessity. The toilet has a china bowl with a foot pedal to fill or flush.

Toilet works well, is comfortable, is perfectly fine in all other ways so repair rather than replacement is called for. I debated whether to replace both the seals and the flush ball at the same time but a friend of mine replace her seals and that took care of her problem of leaking so I opted to just replace the seals this time.

Amazon carries the parts for this Sealand Series 500 toilet by Dometic. So I bought the seal kit from them: P/N 385316140

The kit has just two large disks, one of which is grey PTFE plastic. The other is black rubber. Here’s what they look like. See the grey one underneath the black one? That’s how they’re to be installed on the stand. The grey one first then the black one. The grey one has a ‘This side up’ note embossed into the rubber.

First thing is to turn off the water, then press the foot pedal to empty the toilet. Than put on your rubber gloves. There’s a clam shell cover under the bowl that covers the support base from just under the bowl to the floor. That is removed by unscrewing one screw on the water valve side. Open it up a bit and remove. Set it aside.

 Once that’s off, loosen the screw holding the stainless steel clamp and allow the clamp to drop down onto the lower stand (that black section). On mine, the SS clamp screw was way in the back. Once the screw is a bit loose, the clamp can be turned so it’s easier to access.

Then there are two plastic pieces that act, in conjunction with the SS band, to hold the formed ceramic toilet bowl ceramic ring to the base. Remove those and set aside. Then rock the toilet forward so you get your hand behind and carefully tug the water supply out of the friction fit hole in the back of the toilet. Once that’s safely out (and too much enthusiasm when removing it can break the water valve, ask my friend), remove the toilet and either put it in the shower or the tub if you have one. I just put it in a plastic kitchen tub on the bathroom floor.

And here are the two replacement sealing rings installed on the stand. First though, I took a plastic scouring pad with a few drops of Dawn and scoured the ball valve. Then I threw that pad in the plastic garbage bag I had just for this job, along with the old seals.

This picture shows, on the floor, the two plastic pieces that form a ring and that the SS clamp goes around. Those three parts are what hold the toilet securely to the base and keep it from rocking or falling off. The instructions that came with the seals tell you that the grey disk has a ‘this side up’ warning, and it mounts onto the base first. Followed by the black disk right on top of it. Align the U shaped notch in the edge of both disks to the notch that’s on the side of the base, AND, if you have the type of toilet that has an overflow port, there is an additional hole in each disk. Align those if you have the overflow feature. I don’t, so I flipped the black disk over so those hole didn’t align. OK, ready to place the toilet back on…

And that’s just the reverse of removal. First you hold it in position but tilted a bit so you can insert the water supply hose into the hole on the back of the toilet. It’s a friction fit, doesn’t seem loose at all so there’s no worry about it popping out of the hole. Then carefully set the toilet in position, here you need to look inside the toilet and perhaps move it around so the seal edge you can see down inside the bowl is the same all around the opening, do this before you tighten the SS band clamp. I loosely assembled the two plastic pieces and the clamp so I could shift the toilet position and rotate it a bit into position but didn’t have to worry about dropping it. It’s important that the disks are positioned so that the portion that visible inside the bottom of the toilet is visible evenly all around the ball valve. This helps prevent leaks. Once it’s looking good, checked that the rear of the toilet is aligned parallel with the wall, then screw down the SS clamp, keeping the screw itself near the back of the toilet where the plastic has been moulded to leave room for it in when the cover is installed. Turn on the water, check for leaks, replace the cover and you’re done. Easy.

Time for the ol’ water test. Fill with water, and let it sit. A few hours later, it had the expected level of water still inside so the job was a success.

And then I noticed that there was a puddle of water on the floor next to the toilet. So removed the plastic surround and further tighten the SS band clamp. That seemed to do the trick and it’s been dry ever since. Fairly easy job, except the toilet is fairly heavy and bulky, so it’s best if there’s somewhere already available to store it for a few minutes when it’s removed, like in a plastic bin as shown earlier or inside the shower.

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