Front window privacy Curtains:

The curtains in this RV are the white, stiff, pleated kind. They are much better looking than the fabric curtains I had in my Bounder from both the inside and outside. And it seems they’ll be easier to care for.

The Velcro type edges that hold the curtains together when closed will be a problem, so I’m thinking most people remove and then gently wash these curtains by hand. You can see a bit of dirt on the bottom of this one. 

When I bought this rig, those curtains had lots of unsightly dangly down threads. Unsightly enough that I wanted to do something about it within the first couple weeks I owned it. I formulated a plan where I would just use scissors to cut off the threads but on reflection, decided that probably wouldn’t do as the threads were unraveling and just cutting them off wouldn’t stop the unraveling. I knew I’d probably need to melt the threads at the point they were unraveling to ‘fix’ them in position, but naturally, I didn’t want to burn the RV down. Hmmm. I do have a couple soldering irons, and a heat gun but thought using them for this job would be cumbersome, leave unsightly discoloration, and likely be unsuccessful. After some thought I did come up with a simpler and quicker idea. I’d burn them with a lighter while twisting the curtains mostly horizontal or more.

I just left the curtains hanging from the rails, and where I had access, I tightly bundled the bottoms of the curtains a small handful at a time, and forced them horizontal or more so I could get at the bottom edge easier. Then used the lighter to gently melt all those loose threads. No more dangling threads so far after 1.5 years. I was worried the process would leave black marks all over the bottoms of the curtains but the only place that happened was at first when I tried to tap the burning thread with a finger. Only did that once. If I just removed the flame and blew on the burning thread or just let it burn out, the black dots that are there are so tiny as to be hardly noticeable. Holding the pleats tightly prevented the fire from spreading to more of the curtain. I did take the precaution of having a squirt bottle of water nearby.

There was only one area where it was difficult to get to the bottom of the curtain and bend it up enough and that was the 2″-3″ of curtain behind the driver. But there were so few dangling threads in that area that I didn’t bother to take the curtain down or anything. Just very carefully torched the few dangling threads I had and then quickly squirted the area with water. Worked fine.

I did wonder what I’d do to clean them and eventually I got around to asking on one of the RV’ers forums I frequent. What people do is remove them from the aluminum slides/guides they hang from and loosely bundle them up. Then they slosh them up and down in a tall garbage can filled with water, some dish detergent, and some bleach. Depending on the depth of water, then you flip them over and do the other end. Then use a hose to rinse. Allow to drip and air dry.

Living Room overhead fluorescents:

I have three 22″ long, 6″ wide dual tube ceiling light fixtures that work fine, it’s just that the 3-way light switches at either end of the LR are in the wrong sequence and it bothers me to have the main switch I use to be bassackwards from what I want. So today, time to reverse the switch.

Here’s the lights…

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAThe first fixture in the above pic lights up when the ‘Galley’ switch is operated, it’s the fixture opposite and nearest the stove, then the other two are turned on by the ‘Lounge’ switch next to that one. The other 3-way switch is down next to the stairs so you can turn them on when you enter the house. I like them to all to have their paddle handles in the same orientation


What I had to do was carefully pry off the plastic surround from the assembly. Under that were four wood screws holding the assembly to the wall. Removed them and pulled that out along with the wires attached to the switches.

Then it was just a matter of swapping the outer two wires of the three on the terminals of the ‘Lounge’ switch, leaving the center terminal wire in place. This is equivalent to just rotating the switch 180 degrees.

And here’s a shot of the plate down at the stairs. It would been just as easy to swap wires down here, but I wanted to open up the control panel and have a look inside for future reference so I worked there instead. (The top right switch is the ‘Ceiling’ switch in the following picture).


Control Panel removal…

I’m not having any trouble with the control panel, I just wanted to see what was behind it in case I ever need to work in there. There are two visible wood screws holding it, one at the top, one at the bottom. Remove those, and the wood surround and the metal panel easily pulls out as an assembly.


And here’s all the wiring behind the panel. There’s a good look at the wiring for the 3-way switch for the Lounge lights too. 

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERALots of wires in here, and also the vent pipe for one of the tanks. Probably the black water tank.
OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA A look up to the ceiling…OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAAnd down to the floor…
Those shots may be helpful someday, but naturally I hope I’ll never really need them. If I ever do any remodeling in this area, there’s plenty of room in there for new wiring, plumbing, etc..

Door lock issue…

One of the things that happened on my shake out trip with my brother back in May of ’16, was that several times when he got in the RV, and slammed the door, then the next time we tried to leave, it wouldn’t open. I’d have to open the conveniently placed window beside the door, reach around and operate the door handle from the outside. That must have happened at least 6 times while he was with me. After he left, I had no issues with that. It just didn’t happen to me. Until late November. It happened once while in Rosamond, and then again after I got to the Salton Sea. I was never quite sure if it had done it on it’s own, or if my knuckles had bumped the handle and that causes it. It’s that red bumper lever shown below that’s so easy to hit with a knuckle while operating the door handle.

So I’m now down in Mexico and it happens again. None of the three times it’s happened to me did I have to do more than operate the lower ‘Lock’ lever to get out of the RV. It’s never happened while I was outside. But to be on the safe side, I have added a zip tie to the lower lock actuator so hopefully, I will never be locked out…

I still have the deadbolt I can use, and pry bar entry attempts by burglars are quite rare so missing one of the locks isn’t too stressful for a fulltimer. More often than not, the little spring holding that lower lock breaks and it locks the owner out…and they have to pry bar in. I don’t want that to happen, so zip tied it in place from now on. I’ve left the zip tie loose enough that if I do feel the need to lock both top and bottom locks, it’ll slip right off.


Propane Tank…

Here’s a view of the innards of the typical, horizontally mounted RV propane tank.

Typical propane tank components—-left to right
*Tank liquid level magnetic gauge assembly
*Relief Valve/Stand Pipe set above liquid level in vapor zone
*Fill Valve with OPD Float Assembly
*Bleed/Overfill Valve –Stand Pipe set at 80% liquid level
*Vapor/Service Valve-Stand Pipe set above liquid level in vapor zone

Typical RV propane tank

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