Visit to Pompeii, cont.

Lucky for me that the weather held…and though it remained overcast most of this entire first trip to the ancient city, (see the last posting for the beginning of the day here in Pompeii) my light clothing had turned out to be the best choice for comfort while wandering the ancient streets, alleys, and byways. It was nice and cool, but not cold; no wind but with an occasional puff of cooling breeze; light but not bright; moist but not wet. Perfect hiking weather. Notice in this picture some are in coats, there’s even an umbrella, but mostly it’s casual attire like mine.

This arch over a causeway was built in 2 BCE. It’s at the intersection of two main streets through town. This is located near the main square. In fact, if you turned around right here, you’d be looking at the main square. Framed by the arch, and dating from 200 BCE, that large structure in the background is part of the Temple of Jupiter, mostly ruined during the earthquake, the head of a large statue of Jupiter remains. It was repurposed to the worship of Jupiter, Juno, and Minerva before the eruption. If I didn’t mention it before, there was a huge earthquake 16 years before Vesuvius erupted and practically destroyed Pompeii. Much was in the process of a slow rebuild from the earthquake when Vesuvius kind of ruined that idea.

I followed a small family group that had their own tour guide who spoke English, into this building and got the story (which I can’t recall now) of these pillars supporting the ceiling. It’s hard to see in these pictures how artistic they really are. They would be great in a home bathroom though. 

This is the style of bed back then. Usually wood, sometimes metal, often made of stone with soft coverings. Horsehair mattresses with fabric covers were the rage. The thing about stone beds, don’t laugh, is that they could be made with a hollowed out base and the owners slaves or servants could build a small fire underneath or just toss a burning log in there for a half hour or so, then remove it and air out the room. The stone would retain the heat for hours. Clever.

One thing you’ll notice is the lack of natural light. Now days, we have many square feet of window, back 2,000 years ago, in order to retain heat during poor weather, you’d only have a few cutouts in the ceiling or walls. Some were quite cleverly designed though, so as to allow light to enter, but keeping out rain, birds, thieves, and too much wind.Then, it’s back out into the streets for some more wandering. This set of pictures are just to give you a sense of what the town looked like. Trying to imaging a vibrant city instead of a ruin is a challenge of course but…

Remember last time when I mentioned that there was a wall around most of the city at one time…with towers? There’s one of the towers. Looking North in this shot. On either side of the tower is the defensive wall.

Turn right around, and you can see how big this town was. Then, you can make out some of the modern city of Pompeii off in the distance and the mountains beyond the valley.

It was getting to be a little tiring so I started look for somewhere to eat and have a coffee. I had run into a small cafe outside the site earlier but that seemed like a long walk. There is a cafe and cafeteria here in the city, and I had a cappuccino, but decided to tough it out and wait for food.

I’ve known about Pompeii and been a student of it’s history since first learning about it in grade school. It’s always been a dream of mine to visit, and here, finally, I’m actually wandering these ancient streets. It was thrilling. Really. I was a little disappointed that I hadn’t been able to find someone to travel with, but just being here made up for that. The cost wasn’t even a consideration.

A few paces from the above pic was this series of buildings. Shows you how elegantly some people lived here in Pompeii.

Then I wander down this street and there’s this.. The House of the Amorini Dorati, built around 300 BCE then remodeled extensively in the 1st century. Naturally, it probably changed hands numerous times in those 400 years. The house was actually owned by someone related to Nero’s 2nd wife at the time of the volcano in 79 CE. Uncovered in the 1800’s, the name reflects the cherubs covered with gold laminate found in one of the rooms. It was very well preserved and the archaeological staff even dug up the roots of all the plants in the garden, classified them, then replanted heirloom seeds from the local area to recreate the garden. They even found some viable seeds buried deep under volcanic ash in various places around Pompeii. How would you like to live here?The garden was originally decorated with marble reliefs and sculptures, now in museums of course. Someday they might return them or make copies.

Inside the buildings are found many paintings of Egyptian gods. Anubis, Arpocrates, Osiris, Isis, and Serapides, just some of the gods worshipped here. Or, if not worshipped, then at least honored. Isis seemed to be a favorite god in this house at the time of the destruction. A small alter, which may have had held a statue of Isis originally.

Then, since this house was so close to the North wall, I wandered outside the town and up the slight hill to get a look from on high. That’s the ocean there off in the distance. It got hazy again, but that didn’t dampen my spirits any. That’s the North wall and tower with gate there just to the left of the tallest tree. Just so you know, all these following pictures of gardens and vineyards are actually on top of more of Pompeii that hasn’t been dug out yet. Only around three quarters of the ancient town is visible today. After a little rest on the hill, I wander down Pompeii’s furthest east roadway that’s been uncovered so far, walking due south, and went into any building that looked interesting… Then I ran into this. Built on the southern edge of Pompeii, the old river Sarno’s sloped sides were used to form this theater…named the Great Theater. This place could hold 5,000 spectators and was usually the venue for plays and farces. Also mimes and pantomimes with music and dancing too. The white marble covered seats were for decurions and important citizens. The balconies shown in the next picture were added after the earthquake. Off in the distance I spy a building that looked like a stable. So off I wander to see what it was. In this picture is the ruin of the stage and behind, the dressing rooms and green rooms for the actors. The modern buildings in the foreground are for the archeologists. Don’t know what they’re doing there. Probably stealing artifacts.Ah ha! They are stables. And a parade ground. Cool.

On Edit: Opps, no, they aren’t stables. According to historians of the time, this type of area and building, situated close to two entertainment venues, was used during intermissions to stroll. And a place to shelter when it decided to rain. Those columns were once covered with a roof like in the rear area. They also found armaments from centurions so it was believed that when there wasn’t a show going on, this would have been a parade ground and practice ring for soldiers. Around this time, I was getting tired of walking so much. So I proceeded out of the south gate, up the path and back to the main entrance. One thing I noticed was that there wasn’t any exit gates. I could just wander right in the next day for free if I wanted. That’s the thought that crossed my mind as I was on my way out. The 25 year old me would file that away and take advantage of it, but not now. Now I want to pay so my money will help preserve this place for future generations.

I walk back to my motel and pass this vineyard next to a neat elevated roadway that I never did get a picture of.And here’s my room. That’s the bed, closet & desk. Kitchen on my right, against the wall (can’t see it in this shot), bathroom a little on, also on the right. Outside door directly behind me. This is the B&B Villarocla, Pompei, Tel: 081-536-5544.And the bathroom. I’m beginning to wonder what the Europeans have against sinks that are built into a little cabinet like in the US. I prefer a little more counter space around the sink.Outside my doorway, was a nice little table. I’d head out here with my tablet and ‘net surf when I wanted to check my email or gather info about my next destination.
This is the courtyard for the motel. Many of the guests live here like it’s an apartment complex. They get to have working kitchens I guess. And, after a nice rest, I cooked myself one of the chicken breasts I’d bought at the local market for dinner, threw in a veggie salad and some local bread, followed by fresh strawberries. Oh, and a beer. Ahhh.

See you next time. Which will also be in Pompeii. The ancient site is too big to see in one go. Thanks for reading!