I’m on my way to Pahrump, NV as of tomorrow AM. I am here in Wendell, Idaho staying at Intermountain RV. It will take two short days of driving to get there. If any of you would like some help working on your rig, I’d be happy to help. I’m spending too much time on the computer and need to get my hands dirty so you’d be doing me a service.
The only projects I’ve got in the pipeline for myself are recharging the dash AC system and either repairing or replacing the dash heater core. That should be fun (?) as I have to drop the front end cap to access it if the core needs replacing. I don’t have dash heat right now as I’ve bypassed the heater core but I only have 1.5 days of driving in the coolish weather to worry about until I’m down in the sunny and warm Pahrump valley. I will run the genset to stay warm if need be.
I’ll be staying at Preferred RV Resort. They take the Passport America card or Good Sam so you can get a nice discount. Plus the park is within walking distance of 3 casinos if you’re into that sort of thing. Also it’s only 55 miles from Las Vegas. Has a nice VA clinic in town too.
I’ll be there for more than a month, until around Nov. 20th, then I’ll be heading to near Parker, AZ just below Parker dam.
Drop on by and say hi!
When I replaced my heater core some years ago, upon tilting back the front end cap, the glue gave out. It was almost as big of job to re glue it. After changing the heater motor, It looks like the heater core can be more easily changed from inside the cab. There was some kind of electrolysis problem with the early 2000 heater cores which was fixed with replacement ones.
Sorry for taking so long approving your comment, Fred. I missed it.
As far as gluing goes, I won’t repeat that mistake by Winnie. Instead I drill small holes from the backside of the endcaps through the holes in the brackets to the front, countersink the holes, then insert 6-32 SS screws to hold it in place. A dab of paint and the screw heads are invisible. I can put as many screws in as I care to but usually I only use 1-2 per bracket. The endcaps I’ve already done it to are nice and solid.
The heater core electrolysis issue can be cured by adding a ground wire from the core to chassis.
I’ve only heard a couple times where people have said it’s easier to remove the heater core from inside rater then dropping the endcap. I’ll check that out before I do anything. Right now I’m just going to try replacing the screw in pipes where many have said the leaks originate. If it still leaks, I’ll order a new core and attack the problem of which side to go in then.