March 2018:
As I’ve mentioned, this car did not come with many options that I wanted, no electric door locks, no electric windows, and biggest issue to me, was that there isn’t any cruise control (CC). A/C was the only option it had…if that had been missing, I would have said no to purchasing it. But purchase it I did and nearly two years down the road, I still miss having CC so delved into the info I could find about it. SaturnFans forum is where I ended up checking first for all the issues I’ve had with this car. Even though it only had 60K miles on it, it has had nearly every ‘common’ problem a Saturn SL1 can have. I’ve fixed them all with the help of the forum, and did some maintenance stuff I didn’t need to do just to stay ahead.
So I checked that forum for info regarding aftermarket CC’s and found that I didn’t need to use an aftermarket, which by the way, wouldn’t be fun to install at all. I could use a salvage market steering wheel and CC actuator as the connectors were already there, whether the car came with CC or not. Once I found that out, went onto eBay and quickly found a used set that would work for an SL1 for a half decent price, I paid $85, much lower than an aftermarket add on CC. I can’t link that set because it’s not currently available, you’ll have to search on eBay if you need the set. Ordered the set, and they sat behind the drivers seat for several months while I screwed up the ambition to install them.
Here’s the actuator, it mounts up under the dash below the steering wheel and that middle hunk of plastic slips into a slot in the accelerator pedal assembly…the tab near the end of the plastic rod is a ‘fine’ adjustment. Most people say just leave that adjustment alone.
See that white insert there in the middle of the picture on the top of that metal actuator? That metal arm is attached to the gas pedal below, along with the throttle control on the engine. As you step on the gas pedal, that metal arm pulls that rod out away from the firewall, and that rod attaches via a steel cable to the carb. Just to the left of that white piece of plastic and at 90 degrees to it is a slot, and that’s where the CC actuator tab fits. The actuator will ‘pull’ the throttle actuator to increase speed and relax to reduce it.
And here’s the new(ish) steering wheel with the built in CC buttons:
There are two small connectors, one for the CC and one for the horn. One thing I noticed was that there seemed to be some missing pin bearings in that center shaft hole but when I got the old steering wheel off and checked, that wheel was missing the same pin bearings so I’m thinking they aren’t needed.
After I got here to Yuma Arizona and discovered the long drive practically anywhere from the Southern Mesa RV park where I’m staying, decided it was finally time to install the CC system. I really wanted that for when I drive anywhere around here. Long straight stretches of road with a 50 MPH speed limit.
First thing to do would be to remove the plastic column covers around the steering wheel assembly using a long 5.5mm hex head socket. Pry the start key escutcheon off. Doing this gives room to work on the steering wheel and to do the next step…removing the airbag.
WARNING — AIRBAGS CAN GO OFF UNEXPECTEDLY AND EXPLOSIVELY, BE SURE YOU FOLLOW ALL RECOMMENDATIONS FOR REMOVING THE BAG, OR CONTACT A PROFESSIONAL.
Disconnected the battery negative, than removed the fuse block cover inside the cab on the passenger side. There’s a guide molded into the plastic back of the cover that shows which fuse is which…found the Airbag fuse and using needle nosed pliers, pulled it. Waited for 30 minutes, in order for any residual charge to bleed off of the airbag circuits. There’s a large capacitor that has to bleed off before messing with the airbag otherwise it can go off while you’re working on it, even with the fuse pulled and the battery disconnected.
Now at this point, instead of trying to explain, it might be easier to watch this Youtube video by Richpin, Removing the Airbag. My model airbag is held in place with four large pins and spring latches, no bolts. It took quite a bit of time to get my prying method to work right but eventually, following his advice, it finally popped up from the wheel on one corner. After that, it was fairly easy to get the rest of the airbag posts to unsnap. Lifted it off, and undid the connectors. Be careful to disconnect those before you walk off with the airbag, they are fairly delicate. And be sure there’s no power.
Once the airbag is gone, undo the large bolt holding the steering wheel, and use a steering wheel puller to pull it off. Here’s another Richpin video that is useful as well: Removing steering wheel. Note the style of puller he used. I had the same type from Harbor Freight, only $15. My steering wheel does not have those threaded bolt holes though, and I didn’t want to make a pair of hooked puller bolts like Richpin shows in another video. What I did is lightly jamb the bolts from the puller into the two opposing teardrop slots my wheel has. Then engaged the bolt threads a little tiny bit. Holding it in position, cranked carefully on the center post and boink, the wheel popped off. Mine came off very easily. I had done zero damage to the wheel puller so since I’d saved the receipt and the cardboard box it came in was undamaged, and I’d likely never use it again, took it back.
Once the steering wheel is removed, this will give a bit extra room and access to installing the control box with gas pedal actuator under the dash. That’s a bit tricky for me only because I’ve gotten fat over the years and it’s a real bitch trying to squirm my way up under there. Once I had gotten the CC actuator box in place, and tightened it’s three bolts, than snapped the plastic actuator tab into the accelerator pedal. Found and released the connector from the wiring bundle under there (it was obvious) and snapped it into the control box. It’ll only go in one way. (I’ve since realized that there are 3 rubber grommets that are suppose to isolate the control box from the frame. I didn’t use any. I’ll have to find some and install them soon). Here’s a shot of the control box there on the right with the white paper label on it, bolted to the frame. You can just see the wires from the connector on the back of it.
Replaced the steering wheel, reconnected the connectors, and then reinstalled the airbag and it’s connector, which is really easy as it just ‘snaps’ into place. Replaced the steering column covers, than reinserted the airbag fuse and replaced the fuse box cover.
At this point, reconnected the battery negative and went for a test drive. And of course the CC light would light, but it wouldn’t cruise. Expected that. That’s because there is one more step in this saga. The PCM needs to be programed for CC by someone that has a GM Tech II tool. Here’s what they need to do:
“April 17, 2017 – Saturnfans.com
Anyone wanting to add cruise to a OBDII Saturn and finding that after you install the servo and switch, all you get is the green “ON” light, any shop with a GM Tech-II should be able to enable the cruise for you. This is NOT a PCM reflash and all that is required is the standard Tech-II OBD connector (not the PC-Tech pass through). All they need to do is to access the Reprogramming >Powertrain >Special functions > Engine output controls screen and key in the correct options to turn it on. (Author says: Found this in another thread don’t know if it is correct).”
Called around and after some searching here in Yuma, (the GM dealer’s repair shop didn’t bother to contact me back) I was directed to Jeff at Express Auto & RV as the guy with the skill and equipment.
After talking to him, sounds like he can do the job, and was quoted $54 which is half the shops hourly rate. I’ve read several times that it only takes a few minutes and you’re doing good if you can get a shop to only charge 1/2 hour. I go in this Thursday and looking forward to having real Cruise Control!
I got lucky, the steering wheel is leather and has a very nice feel. Two more days, and I should have cruise control…
My luck ran out with this project. I had an appointment at the only shop in town that I’d been lead to believe had someone who knows about these old Saturn SL1 cars and had a GM Techtool II. Needed to reprogram the ECM so it recognizes the CC. It sure seemed like he knows a lot but after 30 minutes with my car in the shop, he called me out and showed me the readings on his tool and that he couldn’t flip the CC bit. Recommended I find a different GM shop and see if they have the ‘red’ head for the tool. His only has the ‘black’ head that attaches to the OBDII connection in the car. Apparently, the red head allows higher voltage needed to ‘flash’ the ECM EEPROMs.
So as I travel, I’ll be checking with GM shops trying to find one that can reflash an ECM.