More Palenque Ruins

The last set of pictures were day one at Palenque, this set is day 2.

While I wandered around the ancient city of Palenque that first day, for 3 or so hours, I’d run into this cute young women several times. Enough so that we started exchanging pleasantries when we bumped into each other. I found out that her name was Kathleen, she was on her own, was staying in a hotel in the nearby town, and was going to be traveling around Mexico by bus for two months. The newer buses down here are a plush type that is very comfortable, with little TVs to watch in-bus movies, cooling AC, and only 3 seats abreast. Two on the left of the aisle and one on the right. She was taking the plush bus.

When I discovered that she spoke Spanish, I asked her to help me with my RV. Remember that I parked along the road to the ruins and couldn’t find a turn around? Well, she agrees, and when we get back to the entrance to the ruins, she talks to a few people, gets permission, we move some orange cones, and I wander down to get my RV. She accepts the ride downtown that I offer. When I get the RV turned around and we are headed back downhill, I tell her of my experience with the Los Leones…the hotel/motel with a large restaurant in front of the hotel and supposed RV Park. I knew from Church’s guide that they were supposed to have a RV parking for big rigs there. (You can’t see it from the restaurant so I didn’t have any idea if there were other RVs there already, or even if there was an RV park).

Anyway, I had stopped there first before I went to the ruins, and asked the guy that came out if he had any RV spaces. He told me ‘no RV parking’ and talked a bunch of Spanish that I couldn’t understand. Not sure that I had understood what he meant, I brought her back with me as a translator. On the way, a car beeped at us until we stopped. They are an American couple looking for a place to park their class A RV and hoped that we knew, since they had already tried the Los Leones and been turned away. Since they were driving their ‘towed’ vehicle, they had the advantage of already having checked the only other RV parks in the area and nothing was suitable for their 40-foot rig, which means that they were not suitable for my 37 footer either. Anyway, Kathleen leans out my window when we get to the Los Leones and talks to the same guy I had talked to, and for at least 10 minutes in Spanish with me prompting questions. Eventually, she turns to me and explains that yes, they have a RV park out in the back, but without services, but we could use it if we wanted. And it was $100 pesos per night. I drive her to town, trying to talk her into forgetting about the bus and joining me for the two months she was going to be in Mexico. But, sadly, she was going over to the east coast below Cancun for a big ’30 something’ party and planned on getting drunk for four days, and probably get laid by some guy she had heard was going to be there. That part of the coast is where there are a lot of rich Americans so I didn’t have the leverage to get her to join me. Damn. She is a babe with a killer body. And she speaks Spanish. Sigh.

Anyway, I drop her off downtown and head back to the Los Leones, when I get there I pay, and the waiter directs me back behind the place. When I drive back, I find it’s a giant, flat, typical RV park. The place is huge, with no one there. It sports water spigots, AC outlets, and sewer connections at 50 back in spaces. Cool. Only problems seemed to be that they hadn’t mowed for months and the public restrooms were a mess, no problem since I have my own. While I’m choosing a space, that other couple drives in with a nearly new big rig. We discuss the situation, and chose our spaces. I had already tested the electrical outlets and found them to be dead, but water was available. Then I notice a giant electrical box with a huge breaker. It was turned ‘OFF’. I threw it ‘ON’, and the parks outlets came live. We plug in and soon, the AC has made the RV tolerable (it’s very hot and muggy). What luck, or an excellent theft of services, depends on how you look at it. That evening, the 3 of us go up to the restaurant and have dinner. The same waiter helps us. Just a warning, this particular restaurant does the ‘switch’, where they hand you a menu with one set of prices and then you get the bill with more then the menu offered. If you notice it, they pull out a different menu with the higher prices. What should have been $80 pesos became $90 pesos. Since that’s under a dollar, I didn’t go back to complain when I discovered that trickery.

Next morning, my neighbors go check at the hotel office about us all staying another night. The staff says in halting English, no, we don’t have RV spaces, no RV parking, so he walks back, without paying. They offer me a ride to the ruins, while we discuss the situation at the RV park, and we spend the day wandering around, dodging rain showers, and I get another day to visit Palenque.

Note that we already know that there isn’t any other RV park anywhere near here that we can get our big rigs into. When we get back to the Los Leones and try to pay for another night, our regular waiter, the one that told us we could stay in the park, isn’t there. A different waiter tells us they have no RV parking. Period. Since it’s still early afternoon, we drive into town to shop, hoping the other waiter will show up. Two hours later, we have a plan, that since it’s so late, too late for us to find another RV park, we’re not even going to bother to stop and ask, we’ll just zoom back to the spaces and hope no one sees us. Then spend the night. That’s what we do. Then sweat it out for the next hour until it gets dark. Some of the staff know we are parked back there but no one comes back to talk…

Since I’m leaving very early in the morning, I give my neighbors my $100 pesos so they can pay for me on their way out, just as they are leaving, so my leaving won’t cause a ruckus with the staff when they discover we stayed there anyway. I don’t know if they paid when they left or not, and I don’t care…since Los Leones cheated me on the dinner bill the night before. Next morning, I dump my tanks, disconnect, and head down the road. I sweat it for a hundred miles…don’t want to spend time in a Mexican jail for theft of services…

Here are more pictures of this place. It’s really spectacular, I wish the pictures did it justice but they really are no substitute for being here. This set is from the second day of my visit and the weather started out by dumping rain, while I huddled under the giant leaves of some sort of oak type tree, but it let up after that and, if it wasn’t for the stifling heat & humidity, would have been pleasant.

When it did stop raining heavily, I made a bee line from under the leaves of the tree to a pyramid that had some shelter built in. I was surprised to find some of the largest and longest interior rooms I’ve seen so far in Mexico.
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Posted in Palenque & after | Leave a comment

Attempted Visit to Loltun Caves.

After I left Uxmal, I traveled south just a few kilometers to what’s known as the Puuc Route, there are several ruins all along the same road and all within a few kilometers of each other. And 11 KM from the last ruin is a large cave; I believe it’s a partial cenote, a cave in causing a large circular depression in the ground that over time fills with water. Many of the Mayan sites in this area are built right next to a cenote. Chichen Itza is situated between two very large cenotes. Many of the ruins were abandoned those times when the rains around here slacked, as the cenotes and wells dried up, then when the rains returned, the centers were repopulated, repairs made and new buildings begun. Finally, when the Spanish arrived and sacked the cities, most were abandoned and not re-inhabited.

Anyway, I wanted to visit the place so I drove Puuc Route to where it was suppose to be, my map showed it very near the road, when I get to where it should be, nothing. There’s a sign pointing to the left but it’s shown differently, showing ‘Lol Tun’ whereas the maps say ‘Loltun’, so it could be the town of similar name, if one exists. I turn left anyway, and watch for signs. Around 3 KM later, I do pass though a small town, then 5 KM later, I give up finding the caves, and look for a spot to turn the RV around without falling off a cliff. The road is barely wide enough for one vehicle and I would have to pull off the road to let opposing traffic pass.

When I get close to the sign that sent me that way, I’m very careful to examine every sign I see…nothing about a cenote, or the Loltun caves or any other Spanish words that might indicate a cave. When I get back to the ‘T’, I turn left and go another 6 KM to a town named Oxkutzcab. Still no Loltun cave or any signs. For what seems to be such a popular attraction you would think they would have lots of signs for tourists. No such luck.

I head back, check for signs all along the route, still no luck, and the road was mostly a farm country road so light traffic and nobody to ask where the caves were, and finally I end up back at Labna’ ruins. I visited for a while, didn’t get any pictures. The caves are supposed to be the best in the Yucatan…maybe I’ll see them next trip, sorry I missed them.

Since it was still early in the day, I headed on to Campeche. A few hours later and I reached the old city. Built in 1542, the streets are very crowded and narrow. I always follow bus signs whenever I get into a large city but it didn’t take long and I was lost, or at least I couldn’t find the campground I was looking for. I found a tight place to turn my bus around and headed back to the bypass that most Mexican cities have circling their cities. After that, it was easy to get my bearings and make it to a nice campground on the outskirts. I stayed there for 5 days and got my shopping and laundry done. I also took the time to figure out that there are many streaming video setups on the major networks so I could watch my favorite TV shows (mostly). It was fun catching up on my favorite comedies and missing the 95F heat of the city. The only blogging I did was to write more stories about my navy days.

When I left Campeche, I headed southwesterly, toward the Palenque Ruins, one of the top five ruins in Mexico. I knew from my guide book where I wanted to stay for the evening, and when I passed the place I stopped in the circle driveway in front of the restaurant at a hotel. One of the waiters came out and I asked if I could spend the night. He says NO, no RV parking there. Well, as you know, I don’t speak Spanish so I drive on up to the Palenque museum parking lot and park there while I scout around and have something to drink. I can’t make out from the signs where the ruins are. They certainly aren’t near by the museum or the little store they had there, so I jump in the RV and head up the hill, expecting to find them just around the next corner. The road gets steeper and steeper and windy as it heads up the mountainside. I keep going, and after a couple miles I get to the site. I get up to the parking lot, but it’s full and I’m waved back. So I back up a few feet with seemingly no where to park except on a steep incline about 100 yards from the gate off to the side of the road. I park there, and scout around for a turn around place. Nothing. Well, I think, I’ll go tour the ruins and worry about it later.

Here’s a shot of the museum parking lot at the bottom of the hill:
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Museum parking lot and my RV sitting over there.

Then after buying a ticket, you climb up a few rock stairs, walk a 50 yard path and arrive at a flat plateau that the Maya made by hand here on the mountainside. The site is very large, with many buildings and was once the major crossroads of the Mayan empire. This place sits in the middle of the kingdom of the Maya. Very impressive. And this was one of the few places where a tomb was found…all those artifacts from the tomb are in Mexico City, but the museum here near the ruins has a few pieces.
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Sorry, I have been distracted for a couple days here at the campground where I’m staying. I’ve been helping the owner upgrade the electrical. That meant that I could, after I rewired my electrical connection with the proper sized wire and breaker, run my air conditioning. It’s much more comfortable here because the humidity is much lower then in the Yucatan, then when you add AC, even better.

I was pleased to have been here when those famous authors the Church’s stopped by for the night. They wrote the preeminent guidebook to Mexico named ‘Traveler’s Guide to Mexican Camping by Mike and Terri Church’. You hardly see any North American down here without a copy. They are good people and we had a few laughs discussing the Mexican travel adventure. I got my copy of the book signed. Pretty cool. They’re heading for Panama in a Class C.

Here are the Church’s enjoying the balmy night at the only RV park in Las Penas…the name of the park escapes me.

Author's of 'Mexican Camping'.

Now back to regular photos of ruins…

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This is the tunnel where they found a genuine casket with a royal body and all the original gifts sent with him to the underworld:

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Outside showing the entrance to the tomb:
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Off in the distance, another pyramid:
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and another:
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This shot is of the original track up to a shrine and temple up those stairs, it’s a burial shrine right along the creek, pretty impressive:


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And here’s the actual shrine or temple or whatever it is. Even the archeologists don’t really know why it’s up the hill from the main city.

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This creek was actually covered at one time, the Maya built a long tunnel out of rock pieces to cover it so as to open the courtyard:
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This building is interesting in that they built it using the contours of the hill to create a semi-natural pyramid with an alter to a diety on the top. This would have been pretty close to what it looked like when it was finished. There are some very interesting and beautiful frescos inside the building:

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Overlooking the city, and the sea of jungle:
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Some of the best preserved fresco’s I’ve ever seen:
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This was the oldest pyramid at the site, predating all the other buildings by a couple hundred years. Note how crude and large the steps are:
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And out in the back yard, another pyramid, these people just never stopped:
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More soon!

Posted in On the road in Mexico | 1 Comment

Merida to Uxmal Ruins…

The time came to leave Chichen Itza, I’d seen all I wanted to see there, got sick (with a cold and cough) then got well, and it was time to move on to Merida. There is only one RV park there so that’s where I stayed. After a 10 day stay in Piste’, nice but a very small town just a mile from Chichen Itza, I was looking for a large grocery store to restock and perhaps sample some nightlife in town. I don’t mean to diss Piste’ but the fruit and veggies were pretty bad most stores I’d gone to. Though in Piste’ I was able to find a bike repair shop through a store owner who spoke a little English and got my bike adjusted and lubed. The salty sea air I’d gone through had done a number on the metal parts and there was rust all over the chain, and an accident had bent the front wheel rim. They straightened my front wheel and lubed the chain, took around 2 hours, all for $6.04 US.

When I arrived at Merida, the RV park was asking $23 per night and it seemed expensive after the places I’d stayed with the same facilities for much, much, less. Like at Piste’ it was only $7.68 US per night, with all the same services PLUS sewer, and this place only had a dump station, that I couldn’t find. You kind of get use to lower prices and when someone slaps on a huge profit margin like this, it kind of bothers you. But, I needed to shop, they probably had higher taxes to pay, and there was a big store nearby, so I stayed. Rode my bike over to the store and did my shopping, struggled back with two bags hanging from my handlebars. Not the night for bar hopping, to tired after all that shopping.

This is where I parked in Merida, they have around 80 spaces for RVs and I was the only one there…
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Next day, I left for the Uxmal (Oosh-mahl) ruins, #2 in the big 4 of ruins. Chichen Itza is #1. I arrived around 2:30 in the afternoon and parked right on the site grounds, that’s my RV off in the distance. It was a boondocking place, no electric or whatever, but one of the RVs there had WiFi that I accessed for a couple hours when the genset was running…
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There are two large interesting and comfortable hotels here (I toured them), with restaurants and all, one of them is a Club Med, and I have to say, if you’re looking for a long quiet week in Mexico visiting ruins while staying in some first class hotels, this place is really worth a visit…fly into Cancun, take a bus over to Merida, rent a car then travel down here, it’s a short drive from Merida. Stay at one of the hotels, go visit Uxmal Ruins (the entrance is just a few feet from the hotels) then go on the ‘Puuc ancient ruins route’ that’s very near here. And there is a very large cave to tour as well. Probably 2 days at least visiting Uxmal then 2-3 days doing the Puuc Route at a slow pace so a rental car would be best travel method. Very much worth the effort…
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They had all these flowering plant and bushes all over the place, my ancient camera doesn’t do them justice:
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But I enjoyed them:
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After wandering around for a couple hours, having dinner, and resting, at 6:30pm, I entered the Uxmal ruins grounds to watch the night light show. I’d heard it was interesting from some of the people staying in the parking lot, and I rented the headphones, with translation into English to improve my understanding of the ruins with what I thought would be an educational talk. Turned out that it was designed and written by art majors or something. Lots of singing and music and the same lights going off and on casting onto the same ruins. I should have stayed in the RV. Waste of time. But so inexpensive as to be worth it. Now that I’ve been to one of the light shows down here I know that it’s a waste of time and I’ll skip them from now on.
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The next day, I get my ticket and walk into the second best preserved and restored Mayan ruin in Mexico (or so the books say) for my second time. This is my forth visit to a Mayan ruin and this one is impressive. It’s not so much the size of the place as it is preserved artifacts still attached to buildings. I tried to get the best shots I could but my camera has decided to start absorbing moisture from the jungle so I’ve had to delete some of the most obvious shots where the lens is fogged. But there are nearly 100 pictures of the place so I hope you enjoy them, and the work that it took to get them…

This one is a discreet shot of the pyramid as I approached it along the road the Mayan built over 1200 years ago. It’s as impressive now as it must have been back then:
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And a shot as you enter the grand plaza:
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Off to the right of the grand pyramid:
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I’m going to stop telling you about all these buildings because, really, no one knows what they were used for though educated guesses are made, (exceptions noted). And I don’t believe all those that say every single building had religious or governmental purpose. In this place I’d swear that some of the buildings were surrounding a used car lot, or the equivalent, another building seemed to me to be for meat storage next to an ancient disco place, there is a plaza I’d swear was a shopping mall, and other places that seem to be cloistered homes where the upper classes just chilled after a hard day of whipping the peasants.

I think that too many of these ancient buildings are called religious buildings or administrative buildings. Many buildings seemed to be public works that would be equivalent in design, space and positioning to mere shopping centers of today. In a society that had the ability, wealth, and leisure time to build sport arena’s, shopping centers are not that much of a stretch. That’s my opinion. Prove me wrong.
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This is one of those Mayan arches I’m fond of showing…since it points to the lack of a partial circle arch, used in the Med area for a thousand years previous to this…
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Here we see one of the rooms the Mayan’s built inside of their buildings. You never see much more then this, sometimes two rooms of this size would be connected by a large doorway but I never saw three rooms connected together unless it was a single wide low roofed building, like a series of shops linked together:
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Here’s one of the few ‘overhang’ walls that the Mayan’s built. Because of their building technique, this would have been a triumph of the work crew and designer. And it’s still standing 1200 years later. The dog had started to follow me around the site. I didn’t have any treats so eventually he drifted off.

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As can be seen, this quad is where one ball court could have been, except for the remnants of a building there in the middle of it. It’s named the Nunery or something similar by the Spaniards that visited the place. I think this was just a shopping mall, which would explain all the single rooms spaced around the place, that look like little business places, and the building in the courtyard perhaps came after the city had fallen into disrepair…someone built their house in the courtyard because it was neat there, but that’s just my opinion, and they don’t hand out brochures here so what do I know anyway. But it had the look & feel of a large, open air shopping mall:
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Now here’s a real ball court, too obvious to mistake it for anything else. Note those sloped areas on either side? That’s where the spectators sat during the game. They also sat on top of the structure. Then the players would score by putting the ball into a stone circle shown in a following picture. The crowd must have been pretty active during the game, having to move out of the way and such:
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One of the very large lizards that live around here:
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I’m leaving tomorrow and don’t know when I’ll be back on line…thanks for visiting.

Next time, we head South to the Puuc Route trying to find the Loltun’ caves…

Posted in On the road in Mexico | 1 Comment

More from Chichen Itza…

Around four days later, I made another trip to Chichen Itza. I’ll get to that in a bit.

It was a little surprising that it was overcast most of the time here in the Yucatan. I’d half expected it to be hot and muggy all the time. Which is why I’d planned this trip for December. Hopefully to avoid too much heat and humidity. Seems as though my plan worked. Maybe too well, since it seemed to be overcast a lot here. Not this particular day, but generally. It was nice and warm, humidity was fairly low, not too many biting insects, several places to wander to and hang out in the village.

During one of my shopping trips I found that Microdyne stuff I’d been told about in a small convenience store…it’s an iodine based liquid you put a few drips into a bowl with water and rinse your veggies or fruits in. Any fresh food that you don’t peel or cook. Sanitizes them. This village didn’t have much in the way of ‘fresh’ fruits or veggies in the stores. Everything tended to be a bit past it’s prime by the time it got to them. Limp and wilted. No biggie. Stuff is really inexpensive and I’d just buy smaller portions so it’ll get eaten before it spoils. Everything tasted OK except the radishes. Seemed as though they’d been watered with sewage, going by the taste. Yuk. I was pretty happy I’d rinsed them in the Microdyne before tasting them. Tossed the radishes but had fresh fruit and other veggies that were good enough. And a couple days later the fruit and veggie truck pulled into the campground…though I was the only one staying there. Those trucks tend to have stuff that’s in better condition than most of the stores. Anyway, I bought more radishes (which turned out to be excellent) and some more fruit.

I would like to show pictures of Piste’ that I took but they were lost. But here is Google street view map and is looking right at the lot where I was parked. I am pretty sure I was parked right where the bus is parked now. You can just rove around with that map to get an idea of the town. Even navigate right up to the entrance to Chichen Itza. I pretty much stayed on the main street while I stayed here in the village.

Map of Piste’

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Posted in Mexico \'06 | Leave a comment

Visit to Chichen Itza…

Strange as it may seem, I am posting this in 2015 although I’d visited Chichen Itza in December of 2006. There were a few things that have happened over the years between when I visited Itza in ’06 and now that probably have something to do with that. Three or four times my computer crashed while in Mexico and it’s very difficult to repair stuff inexpensively there, so I’d put it off and use my backup computer. I was traveling almost continuously. I slowly over time forgot about not posting an entry about Itza. Than there was the accidental deletion of my picture folder. More travel. Finally got a newer, better computer, found some undelete software and was able to recover the pictures. Something else went wrong and a hard drive crashed, it could have been months before I was both able and interested enough to restore pictures and that’s probably what happened here.

Mysterious things like this happened many times because I was always using ‘used’ or inferior computer devices, older OS’s, and free to me computers in order to try to save money. Recall that I retired eight years early and so was living on and trying to extend the proceeds of the sale of my house.

I remember how happy I was a few years ago when I stumbled onto hundreds of travel pictures on an old backup hard drive I’d thought lost. The pictures were restored and then I just missed writing the story that goes with this series of pictures in Itza so it never got posted. This sort of mix up does happen when you’re traveling and don’t have a set schedule for blog posts.

Anyway, eight plus years late, here is the story of my trip to the #1 Maya site in the Yucatan. It’s a modern wonder of the world. A World Heritage Site.

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After leaving Chetumal, I drove up the coast of the Yucatan intending to take a shortcut straight up to Chichen Itza, but lalalala, I just totally missed the turn off. (Even a couple hours later I couldn’t recall even seeing the turn off for the road). Oh, well. I’ll just keep going to Cancun, there’s a fairly nice RV park just north of town. But…I knew that Cancun wasn’t really Mexican. It was developed by a Dutch touring company and a monied investment consortium in the ’70’s on an area of beach that no one wanted. There was a tiny village nearby but that was it along much of the coast here. Anyway, I wasn’t all that interested in visiting Cancun to begin with but here I go missing my turn. Dammit. BTW, it’s 6 hours from Chetumal, and another 2 hours to Chichen Itza and the shortcut would have saved me 1/2 hour.

Well, I figure, I’ll make the best of it and stop at that RV park north of Cancun and visit for a couple days. So I’m driving into the city, on a four lane divided highway and everything looks so dull and boring…not my kind of Mexico. It’s just like they say, a big tourist trap and nothing else. Nothing Mexican looking about it, really.

So I see a turnaround…no signs saying it is but I figured I could make a U turn there without to much trouble. I haul my big ass 37′ RV to the turn and block traffic behind me, then try inching my way into traffic in the opposite lane. I find that there’s not much room here for my RV and have to stop and back up a bit to be able to make the turn. Meanwhile I’m blocking 2-3 lanes of traffic and coming the other way is a city bus guy looking right at me…but he smiles and waves and I notice that he’s actually cut off two lanes for me as he pulled up to the intersection! Nice! Anyway, I make the turn and head for Itza.

Two hours later I’m there, in the small village of Piste’ outside the ruins, and since the village is so small, quickly find my RV park. But I nearly passed it as the entrance was kind of hidden and was a little tight for my RV. Looked more like an alley at first glance. Had to make a couple tight cuts but made it in.

The place was empty of RVs but had the amenities I was looking for. Sewer, water, but only a 15A connection. But it was warm so I’d not need at all and the AC not likely. Everything about the park showing it’s age. The RV’ers restrooms were in pretty sad shape too. Doors wide open, not very clean, no TP or toilet seats. Well, OK, I can survive that. Stardust Inn was the name of the place, they don’t have an internet presence so I don’t know if they are still open these days or not. I walked around that first night trying to find an office but couldn’t. Church’s guide to Mexican camping said the caretaker lived back behind and he’d come and collect. He never showed up. I could see a house back there behind the fence, it looked deserted, and there was no gate to that property in the RV park fence. Lights in the house never came on. Gave up trying to pay as it got dark. I was hungry and needed to cook dinner so set it aside. Next morning, after my brain told me that the RV park might be attached to the hotel since it shared a wall, I walked in and a cute young thing behind the desk that knew a little English told me that yes they were the RV park too. But she didn’t know how much it would be for a weeks stay. She ran upstairs to talk to the ‘old woman’ as she put it and then charged me $7.62 per night. Wow. I’m liking that! I ended up staying for 10 days. After I’d been there 7 days, 3 really nice Class A rigs pulled in and I guess the manager came by and asked me very nicely not to mention what I was paying to the new guests. Hah! So it seemed as though the old lady didn’t really know what they were charging and just guessed. Well, it worked for me.

The next couple of days there at the RV park, I gathered information about Chichen Itza off the internet. Mostly, intellectually stimulating things wherever I could find a decent article. This because I’d been studying the Maya for decades. I liked doing that pre-review so I’d not be the typical stupid tourist. Be prepared, I always say.

The RV park was only a mile from Chichen Itza so I could walk on the nice sidewalk or ride my bike to the site with ease. There was a little convenience store right across the street from the RV park and 2 or 3 hole-in-the-wall restaurants where I did my shopping and ate 3-4 times during my 10 days in the village. After I’d been there several days, I asked a shop owner where I could get my bike fixed and he escorted me to the bike shop. Huh. That was nice of him. Then the shop fixed my bent wheel, fixed a couple other things, made several adjustments, and it was good as new. Cost was under $8. Then I was able to ride my bike all over this small village and check it out. Not the most interesting village I’d been in in Mexico, but it was friendly and easy to get around. <At one time I had some pictures of the town of Piste’ and where I stayed, but those were lost somewhere and sometime>.

Finally, I was ready, and walked the 1 mile to the Itza site. Early, like 8 AM arrival time. There were only 3-4 people in front of me when I bought my $9 ticket. Then I  walked down this tree lined pathway…

 

The walkways on either side are where the vendors set up a little later in the morning. There’s one setting up early on the left in the above picture. Late in the day, both sides of this path are full of vendors.

You walk up that path, and it opens up on a big grass covered field where you get your first view of the pyramid:

 

 

And around on the other side, notice the snakes heads:

This side and two others have been restored. They are working on the forth side.

This is the last section needing restoration.

It’s spectacular. No wonder it’s considered one of the 7 wonders of the world on the new list. Then you turn around and find all these other ruins within spitting distance of the pyramid. Most of them with intricate carvings.

Turn around and there it is again… 100_2110 100_2111 100_2112 100_2113

It was blissful for me because I’d been an avid reader of studies of the Maya for decades. Must have read nearly 100 books about them. All these columns were very interesting. There would have been a ceiling at one time. Many ceilings were composed of tree trunks lashed together with grasses and branches providing cover, much like thatching found in England. In summer, they’d protect from the heat of the sun, and the rain showers. In winter they could be pried open a little to let in more light.

100_2114 100_2115 100_2116 100_2117 100_2118 100_2119Everywhere you look or wander there’s more ruins. All fairly interesting…to me at least.100_2120

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Here’s where you get a look at their attempt at a stone roof. They never invented the arch…or the wheel for that matter.
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You might notice how few people there are in these pictures…that’s because I got here early and the tour buses don’t start arriving from Cancun until 11 AM and stagger their arrivals after that. So I’m far beyond where the crowds are right now. Eventually, it’ll get crowded as this place gets 2 million visitors a year, but arriving early means I can pretty much tour in peace.

And here a row of houses with a common front yard.100_2130 100_2131 100_2132This is so you can get a sense of scale of the columns. And then I finally ran into some other tourists. And these folks had their own guide, and kept getting in my way.100_2133 100_2134

This shot is of a dark and foreboding trail into the jungle. I went down it a couple hundred feet but it stayed pretty much the same the entire walk. Just a trail in the jungle. There was one small sign that said it was an ancient trail but no further info. There were a couple openings off that trail onto what I would suppose pass for meadows in the jungle, but could see no artifacts or ancient buildings anywhere. I learned later that the trail lead to a small well.100_2135 This is a modern example of the ancient thatching and mud hut methods. Very similar to European methods. It was a reconstruction to show us how most of the smaller houses were put together. They were saying that the typical Maya would have lived in this style house and just a few in stone houses.100_2136 Then we’re back in the main plaza. This plaza would have held thousands and the priests would have spewed their special brand of bullshit from the top of the pyramid, where, by the way, it was off limits to regular people. Death was the punishment. A plaque said that there was an altar in that building on top of the pyramid. Up there would have been where sacrifices were performed and the body pushed/thrown down the stairs.100_2137 Turn around and there’s more buildings…and this little guy.100_2138 100_2139 100_2140 100_2141

 

100_2142See how that wall is angled? Their engineers & builders could do that angle hanging off the sides of buildings, anything of a flatter angle would have collapsed. They seemed to have perfected that building style and it was used both as an outside facia or an inside ceiling.100_2143

And these are the buildings around the ‘Ball Court’ area. Quite the assemblage. Look how high the goal is. Before I came here, I didn’t realize they could be so high.100_2144 100_2145

 

The fans would sit on either end of the courtyard and also on top of the buildings. Even more would line the bottoms of the buildings and have to get out of the way when the players came their way.

You can see how the crowds have started to arrive. It’s around 11 AM and starting to get filled up here in the old town.100_2146 100_2147 100_2148There seems to be a little storm heading our way. And below is a close up shot of the ball hoop after the crowd drifted away. All I did was sit down for 15 minutes or so and they seemed to wander away as a group. Thousands of these ball rings all over the Yucatan were stolen and are in private collections, then there are hundreds in museums. There are 12,000 known Mayan ruins, most of them with ball courts.

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This building was at one end of the ball court. Seemed as though it must be part of the facility but for what, I don’t recall. But I think it was where the King and his court sat during the games. Remember that some games were to the death, and some not. Some were played by captives against the home team, others captives only. Sometimes the winning team was killed, sometimes the losing team.

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Huge, isn’t it. I mean the ball court. Putting this much effort into what was essentially a stadium suggests that at one time, at least, the Maya had both the treasure and the leisure time for sports.
100_2152 100_2153 Look at this place. Wow. Explains why the Spanish were stunned first time they came here. By the way, I’m not posting all these pictures to annoy you folks, but for myself really. I do read my own blog quite often to remind myself of places I’ve been.100_2155

100_2156This was the backside of the building above. Unfinished berm. Shows how they put the buildings together mostly of rubble, then covered it with facia stones. 100_2157 100_2158 100_2159 100_2161 100_2162 100_2163And back to the main plaza. Seems like all roads lead here. Then I started heading towards the main cenote here in the city. There were several, and I visited them all, but this one was the biggest with the richest history. These were the buildings and paths along the way.

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One of the sidewalk vendors had these. I really, really wanted some of his stuff but remember I was still trying to be conservative with my money so I passed on them. He wanted me to pay him for taking a picture and I’m afraid I wasn’t very nice to him about his attempt. Maybe if he hadn’t jumped me ‘after’ I’d taken the picture and tried to be a bully about it I would have been more kind.100_2166 100_2167

This path in the below picture is 2,000 years old. It leads to the cenote…where they got their water until they started throwing sacrifices into it. The pathway was built up enough that archeologists thought it had become a processional pathway. This is where they’d carry, drag, or accompany sacrifices to the gods. And angry, bloodthirsty gods they were too! 100_2168 100_2169Getting close. It’s right there. What, can’t see it?100_2170

Ran into this rabid dog at the cenote. Threw him a leg of man and he wandered off with it, so I was safe for a while.

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And here is the first view. This is the reason the people actually settled here. Lots of water. Later, of course, the priests co-opted the whole thing and twisted it into some kind of religious bullshit, but this is the real reason. Water. After I bought a coffee and snack, I wandered down there and sat on the edge.100_2172 100_2173 100_2174 100_2175

And an ancient guard shack…according to the sign. Eventually, they were making sacrifices here so often they had to keep regular people away. Early archeology found thousands of artifacts here underwater but they are distributed to 10’s of museums and private collections all over the world. And though this tiny building was for guards, that building in the background was where you got your coco. Now they serve all sorts of drinks. So in modern times, it’s still performing the job it was built to do.100_2176 100_2177

No snakes or anything.

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Water color kept changing on me while I sat on the edge and enjoyed my coffee with cocoa. Clouds passing overhead did their work on the colors.100_2179 100_2181 100_2182 100_2183Just a few steps from the cenote was this set of buildings and if I recall, the archeologists weren’t certain what they were for.100_2184So then I take a different path back to the main plaza. I thought this view (above) was a little eerie off into the jungle. I should have run the picture through a filter or two but, meh.

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Some new wave hippy pointing out something. I’m laughing to myself while he was making a big bunch of BS right here for his group. Which I wasn’t a part of but could overhear. I tried not to step in anything he might have dropped. But I took a picture of what he was pointing at. It’s magical! HAH!

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And then back at the pyramid I spy these people up there on top. What the hell? Everything I read said that no one was allowed up there. So I was curious. I noticed a Mexican National Park guy very near so I went and asked him about it. “Oh, those are Maya, they are the only people allowed to climb the ruin of the pyramid because they built it”. Ah. Ok. Well, as I walked home, I resolved to find some official next time I came who I could offer $200 pesos to to try and get permission. Eventually, there were like 30 people up there. So I might be able to sneak in unnoticed. Maybe.100_2189 100_2190 100_2191

Can’t remember what this building below as all about. Maybe the observatory.100_2192

This is the only side of the pyramid I haven’t shown yet. Note that it’s also restored. Just that one side (on the right in this picture) left to go. There’s some touch up needed of course…there always is.

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And a little closer.100_2194

After those few more shots of the pyramid, I wander down to the ticket office where there’s a coffee bar and such and enjoyed a nice snack and coffee while avoiding the tiny rain shower that happened by at the time. What an experience. Really enjoyed my visit to Chichen Itza. It turns out that if you enter the cafe, you’ve left the park and have to pay again if you want back in. Luckily, that meant little to me as I’d already taken the time to see the entire park, plus since I was staying in town just a mile away, I could come back anytime for another tour. Which I was already planning to do.

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Hope you enjoyed this visit.

 

 

 

Posted in Mexico \'06 | Leave a comment

On the Road & Chetumal…

From Catemaco we headed due east to Chetumal, spending the night in a Pemex station that had long lines waiting for fuel. I’d fueled up 2-300 miles earlier and could easily make it to Chetumal so I spent that evening cleaning up the grassy area in front of the station rather then waiting for fuel. It was a mess of plastic bags, cups, bottles, papers and the like people had tossed out of their windows and since it was my front lawn that night, I didn’t mind spending 45 minutes picking it up. Filled two big bags with trash then brought out my lawn chair and a beer and enjoyed the distant sun sinking into the jungle, I could swear I saw steam rising as it set.

Next day we’re on our way and pass this odd suspention bridge. Cool design.
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Around noon, we stopped along side of the hiway for lunch:
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On of the many types of flowers right around here in the jungle:
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When we arrived at Chetumal, we had time to stop and do some shopping in a giant mall, then tripped out to the property of one of the travelers. This land was inhabited by the Maya for a thousand years and on this property, there is both a platform for a house, tons of broken pottery on the ground, and a small pyramid. Wow. It’s not everyone who can say that their property is an archelogical find.

Where I parked:
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The ancient mound where there use to be a house, the current property owner is allowed to build over it or around it but not dig into it:

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Another view of the mount behind the modern palapa with it’s hammocks:

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Next day, I rode my bike up the road maybe 2 miles from where we were staying, to a Mayan ruin site…I don’t recall the name and a quick check of my guide books turns up nothing, but it is an improved site, with a parking lot with restrooms, and a charge of $50 pesos to visit. It took me from 7:30 am to around 10:30 at a leisurely pace, without having to dodge any other tourists, to circumnavigate the entire site. This is one of the estimated 12,000 ancient ruin sites all over Mexico. This one I would call…cozy. It was a working town until the Spaniards arrived, murdered a bunch of people, forced many into slavery, then built a giant church on the grounds to show how powerful their god was to the natives. The church is interesting in that it has a couple of huge arches incorporated into the building. The Maya seemed to never figure out the arch, they built what’s actually an inverted V, like this ^ only steeper, and it could not carry much weight, or they just preferred to ignore the superior load bearing abilities of the classical arch for their own reasons. Whatever the case, they didn’t use the arch. Or wheels:

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This was the first pyramid I was able to climb in Mexico…:

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An example of how the jungle can cover huge buildings, there is another large pyramid just up this trail but it’s totally invisible until you’re nearly on top of it:
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The top of another pyramid, this one has (had) what appears to be a home on top, the sign said that it was a female gods home or something like that:
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A thousand years ago, this plaza would have been devoid of trees, but filled with merchants and shoppers:
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This is what the sign said is one of the rulers dwellings. There are several bedrooms, and a large kitchen nearby. These rooms are on top of a large but not very high pyramid overlooking a plaza, with a religious pyramid on the other side of it and administrative pyramids on either side. There does not seem to be what we would call a living room in the dwellings I’ve seen. But the weather here is so fair, I’d imagine people, including the rulers, would hang around outside until time for sleep:
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That was just one of the thousands of towns and cities that the Olmec, Toltec, and Maya built over here in the Yucatan.

A day or two later I moved over to a nearby RV park intending to stay a month or so…but the place wanted $32 per night and the weekly rates were not much better. They never told me what the monthly rate would be. Anyway, I didn’t see much in the area that would be all that interesting anyway, so I headed on up to Cancun and Chichen Itza. But here’s a few pictures of the RV park anyway. The ocean was pretty nice:

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Posted in On the road in Mexico | 1 Comment

Visit to a cemetery….

The several Mexican cemeteries we have passed in our 3-4 weeks here have been interesting to see at 40 MPH but I wanted a closer look, so when we stopped for a break right across the street from an old cemetery in the suburbs outside of a big town, I wandered over there with the camera to get a few shots.

Their cemeteries are colorful, cramped, with many heartfelt expressions of love chiseled into the granite markers. We visited a few days past the day of the dead so there were many flowers still there, adorning the graves…

The small buildings are really shrines to the departed, and the more money you have, the bigger and better the shrine is. There were above ground crypts as well, some going back to the 1800’s.

Many of the cap stones and shrines showed their age by style and weathering, but mostly the care and tending of these rest spots implied that the Mexican people visit their departed loved ones often, and bring gifts along with the flowers. One thing I did notice is that the tiles used in the construction of most of the shrines were nicer then most of the types of tile I’d seen in stores and homes I had visited in Mexico.

While I don’t know the burial traditions of this place, I think anyone would get a sense of how nice the people really are by seeing how they care for these family members. I wonder how far back their traditions go…

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Back on the road, and a couple hours later, we stopped at a Pemex for lunch. I found this guy living in a diesel air filter. I wanted the filter so I dropped it out and watched it scamper under my rig…too quickly for me to get another shot.
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Then the weather started to close in again and we drove through a couple of drenching squalls:
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This is one of the rain swollen streams we crossed, one thing they don’t lack here is rain:
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Posted in On the road in Mexico | 1 Comment

Down in Catemaco…

After we left Xalapa, we first headed east then south to Catemaco. It is a picturesque town on the shore of a lake of the same name. When we arrived, there were no other RV’s in the park that we could see, but the lake was inviting and we settled in for the night despite the lack of sewers or running water at out spaces. They were also asking too much and we negotiated a better price for several days. Meanwhile, we arranged for a special boat ride the next day for $350 pesos for six people. Happily, a German couple arrived late in an older Class A, Horst and Anna, and they joined our little group the next day for a lake tour.

How we all parked in this little space:

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The restaurant where we had great food at a great price, 1/2 the cost of in the US but high by Mexico standards of pricing:

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The boats the tourists take to tour the lake, ours was arranged for the next day:

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Up the street:

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Dusk over the lake. It’s just across the street from where I’m parked:

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Next day our boat waiting for us:

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And we’re off:

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The greyhound surveys, seemed he was a natural sailor:

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Lazy birds:

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This area has been inhabited for thousands of years. It was in ancient times, a resort area. Although there are few ruins, there is some reason to believe that at one spring at the north end of the lake, bubbling warm fresh water through mud, has drawn people for centuries for soothing mud baths. There were constructions that have been rebuilt and reproductions of ancient statuary akin to the works that would have been here a thousand years ago and have been reset at ancient positions, though the actual statues are long missing. We toured the area, it’s called an ‘eco preserve’ area by locals, and some of the profits from our tickets are put back into preserving the flora and fauna. The pictures you see here are of the rebuilt buildings and reproductions of typical statuary, mostly historically accurate in that they are appropriate gods and goddesses of the indigenous peoples of the area. These first few pictures are as we motored the lake near the western shore for views of the egrets and a few nice estates.

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Their are 3 kinds of birds in this shot…we were told that the two smaller species, one mostly black, and the other mostly white with yellow feet, sometimes get drunk and walk on the wild side, producing the larger and heavier 3rd type of egret that was nearest the top of this tree. It’s dark with yellow feet, and they always seem larger then their parents. Or so the guide told us. You can see that it appears twice as large as it’s neighbors near it as well as larger then those perched below.

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The weather was a little spooky, what with the clouds rolling over and sometimes threatening to rain, but it was mostly mild with a temp around 74F and no rain all day…

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We approach the sanctuary:
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Pay our $35 pesos and cross the suspension bridge with our guide:
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A restored walkway:
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One of the ceremonial circles:
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A little local color:
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This goddess takes on the sins of the petitioner or something, that’s the meaning of the black around her mouth. At first I just thought she needed a shave.
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This was the sweat lodge. Water would be poured onto hot rocks for steam:
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One of the interesting buildings that I forget the meaning of:
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This use to be the area where they got the mud, now I’m not sure:
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Some kids enjoying a swing:
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There’s a gator out there somewhere. They were almost hunted to extinction by the locals but these are protected:
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These lizards are rescued from the wild as eggs, grow up here, then are released at age 3 or 4. They handle that treatment well and after release are hunting on their own quickly. The locals eat to many of them which is why they need to be protected here:
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On our way back from the ‘Eco Preserve’, we passed Monkey Island that some idiot thought would be a good place to release a few imported Indonesian Short Tailed Macaques. They’ve been overfed ever since but have never made it from this island to the mainland. The 2-3 year old animals are captured and sold to zoos all over the world., which maintains the tribe population at around 20 individuals. One alpha male, female adults, and then the kids. Tourists have been overfeeding them since they got here. As you can see, they are fat, but not as unhealthy (I’m told) as they use to be because of a change in the treats the tourists are now allowed to give them. Before there were too many treats, now it’s protein instead. As you can imagine, the dog went nuts when he saw these little hairy people…but the monkeys could have cared less:

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That tour only took 3 hours so the rest of the day we wandered around downtown Catemaco while I looked for some stuff called Microdyn. It’s based on iodine I believe and it’s used for purifying water and veggies. Took quite a while to find it, had to go to 4 stores. This town is a quintessentially Mexican village. I’ve been through many villages down here now and this one really gets my vote as one of the more interesting and attractive. But for you Gucci wearing types, it is very rustic as well. But there are some 3-4 star motels here. I’m glad I made it up here.

One of the aggravating things about RV’ing in Mexico is the lack of consistency. For the money we would have been paying for our spaces here, compared to the US, or even a better Mexican RV park, we would have gotten 30 amp, water, and sewer, or at least a working dump station. Maybe even cable. Here, we got 20 amps, no water unless you wanted to drag a bucket over to the restaurant, and a dump station you had to back up too, and that was higher then where you could park a rig like mine to use it…and sewage doesn’t flow uphill. They tried to charge us way too much, but we were able to negotiate a pretty good price since it’s the off-season and the place was empty when we got there. The campground ended up having my Class A, another Class A, two Class C rigs, a couple class B camper vans, a truck camper, and even backpackers, who used a tent. They mostly all arrived later in the day and the next day so we considered ourselves lucky to get the discount when we arrived and the place was empty. Plus we ended up staying 5 days for a look around so that made them happy. Like I said, I stayed indoors most of that time watching and listening to games and working on the blog, while it rained buckets, but I got a good sense of this place when I did go out. It was great staying here.

Posted in On the road in Mexico | Leave a comment

On to Xalapa (aka Jalapa)…

After we left the Emerald Coast, we headed on up to Xalapa. This is a city with all the amenities including one of the largest collections of Olmec giant stone heads at their museum. It was off our track but the ladies wanted to visit with one of their friends that has a place down in Coatepec, which is just south of Xalapa.

So we arrive there late afternoon, settle in at the parking lot of a Sam’s store and spend the night. Next day the women head off to their friends place and I take a taxi half way across town to the museum. I got there at 10am and wandered around for 4 & 1/2 hours. Could have been longer but I was suppose to meet the women at 3pm and follow them to Coatepec to camp. Well, the road was so bad and the boondocking site so small in Coatepec that we decided to bag that excursion and stayed on the Sam’s parking lot for another night there in Xalapa.

The city itself is just your typical semi-modern Mexican city so I didn’t take any pictures of it, and we were having some rainstorms though the area so it was sort of gloomy.

When you first walk into the museum, this Olmec head is right there. They didn’t have any brochures to hand out so I’ll have to go by memory for this part, I think this head is considered the 7th best out of all they have:

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This one is even better, it spoke to me while I was standing there, almost made me wet my pants, stupid ghostly Olmec head voice:

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These guys were pissed at something:

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These things weighed tons so they are not worried about a visitor walking off with them:
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So you know, we are getting progessively older as these pictures take us for a walk through the museum. Starting over 800 years ago and going back to 4,700 years BPE. I won’t say much about these pieces since their descriptions were in Spanish so I don’t know much about them, occasionally there were brochures available in English so I can describe some pieces. This is a picture of the other wing of the museum, I’m still in the first part of this main wing when I took this shot out of a side door, just to give you an idea of the size of the place. They have some of the heads in their own alcoves with other pieces, they look like little courtyards in the tropics:
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This is a panther, stylized as you can see. The mouth is like a pathway to the other side:
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Here’s one of the altars:
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Can’t remember for sure…father holding dead son?
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One of the more interesting figures
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This is a clay figure of someone after they have had their skin flailed, no explanation of why you would want such a statue, maybe as a warning?:
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These following clay figures are all over 1,000 years old and are an excellent example of the type of creative art they had going on back then, wouldn’t I love to have one of these:
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Here’s a couple shots of El Tajin, where a lot of the pieces here in the museum came from, and that I visited a few days before:
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This piece is the most macabre in the museum, this is a clay representation of a torture victim. They would be tied up like the clay figure, with those big ropes, with arms placed in those cones (they’re hard to see, there are like horns near the ear and they are behind the head) so you would have your arms up behind your head and tied, with all the weight of the rock, the whole thing is made out of rock, except the rope then ?, shiver:
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These skulls and artifacts were presented here like they were found in a group grave; it may have been raided, not known:
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This guy with the huge woody is wearing the skin of a victim, seems happy about it:
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Anyway, hope you enjoyed the visit to the museum. Sadly, the Spanish did an excellent job of stealing all the gold so there are none of those types of artifacts here. There are some pieces at Chichen Itza and I’m planning on going there next, don’t know for sure where that museum is yet but I’ll try to find it soon.

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On the Emerald Coast, Mexico…

After spending the morning touring the El Tajin ruins, one day is probably enough, half a day not enough, we went on without Woody (he headed on down to Panama), to the Emerald Coast. This area is well worth the visit. We got here just between the seasons so where we stayed they had few guests. We stayed two nights to recharge our personal batteries and to get on-line (it takes some effort to get the satellite set up and running and all, so if we’re not going to be in one place for at least two days, we usually bag it and don’t set up at all).

Anyway, here’s where we stayed. Note that there are several RV camping spots all up and down the coast here, all bordering the ocean. Many choices, good facilities, good nearby services and food, etc. It’s a place where you could settle for several months if you wished:

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As you can see, not to popular with the tourists at this time of year:
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The Caribbean shore, where in days of yore, Spaniards came to exploit, er, explore.
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