Points south of Meteor Crater

After spending the day at Meteor Crater, I headed back east on I-40 to Winslow, then south on US-87. This route took me through some small towns up in the forested areas of Arizona. I stopped in Pine at a small RV park but couldn’t find anywhere to park. It was designed in the 1950’s when RV’s were all tiny. And it really looked it. I went on to Payson. Stayed the night at a WalMart. I would have rather stayed in Pine but, oh well.

Next morning I headed on to Phoenix. There was a good reason for this portion of the trip, the Seattle Seahawks were going to be playing the Cardinals in Tempe at Sun Devil Stadium. There were 8 or 9 RV parks nearby the stadium so I felt confident that I could find a place to stay. WRONG!

The parks in and around Tempe are all very expensive. Because of the taxes mostly. Anyway, I had a week to kill before the game so I headed west on I-10 to a little wide place in the road named Tonopah. There is a large RV park there with reasonable weekly rates of $125 so I spend the next week hanging out there.

Here’s a shot of sunset just outside my front windows…

I arrived here on Tuesday. I’d already bought my game tickets a few days earlier, only $52 bucks! On game Sunday, I drove the rig over to the stadium and found that they want $40 to park an RV. Wow! Buttheads.

Here’s a view of the stadium.

The field…

We win!!!!!

On the following Tuesday, I head on over to Quartzsite, Arizona. I spend the night at a small campground, do my internet cruising, clean up the house, jump in the drivers seat, start up and drive away…with the water hose and electrical cable dragging behind. The owner yells at me a little, but gets the water turned off quickly, then repairs it all in less then an hour. Meanwhile, I’m fixing my electrical box that got ripped out of the basement wall. He charges me $20 for the damage, and off I head to Parker, Arizona.

Why Parker? Well, Quartzsite isn’t very interesting. It’s got the world’s largest flea market in January but the rest of the year it’s a dumpy little town in the desert. Parker is much larger then Quartzsite…like 13,000 or so, so it has larger and more stores and the like. I crossed over the Colorado River into California looking for a RV park. The best deal I found for a months stay was at Big River RV Park. I’ve been here since Nov. 10th and really like the park. Made some friends, had a lot of fun, found a nice bar.

Here’s a view of the river a few steps from my front door.

My space…

Continue reading

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On to Meteor Crater

After spending 3-4 days in Joseph City, I head West on I-40 towards Flagstaff. Along the way is a privately owned landmark, Meteor Crater. If you don’t remember the story, about 50,000 years ago, a large iron-nickle composition meteor blasted a hole in Arizona. Traveling at 26,000 miles per hour, it vaporized upon impact but that was unknown to the miner that bought the land in 1903. Expecting to find a large iron deposit right at the bottom of the crater. Years later the head geologist of the US proclaimed that it was a volcanic feature. Wasn’t the first time the guy had been wrong.

Anyway, there have been movies made there, the astronauts have trained there, etc. Now the family of the original owner runs the place as a tourist destination. It’s pretty cool. I’ve been here twice over the years. They have a RV park at the entrance and a Subway shop in the museum.

Unfortunately, you’re not allowed to hike around the rim or go down into the crater, so all these shots are from the rim near the museum. The crater is 4,000 feet across, 550 feet deep.

A shot of the rim…

Down into the crater.

It’s me!

Off in the distance, the Mogollon Plateau? Can’t remember.

Posted in In the Southwest... | 1 Comment

Petrified Forest & Painted Desert.

After leaving El Morro and heading west, I had a choice of either heading south to Phoenix or going back north to see Petrified Forest National Park and Meteor Crater. At the ‘Y’ joining US-61 & US-191, I headed north.

Here in the Southwest there are few trees, the roads are wide, the vistas vast and the weather this time of year is exceptionally pleasant, so even if there isn’t someplace to go, there always is a view of somewhere.

Near the entrance to Petrified Forest National Park are two businesses that deal in polished rocks and all sorts of Southwest type nick-nacks. Wow, amazing all the beautiful forms the rock attains. The one store I wandered around had tons of polished and cut rocks. Some were huge and priced at $15,000 or more. Whoa! After spending an hour browsing at the shop I head over to Petrified Forest and trek around looking at all the toppled 150 million year old trees that have turned to rock. There is a small museum there that has several skeletons of ancient animals set up so it was very interesting. Spent a couple hours in the museum and trekking the trails around the park.

Here’s one of the trees…

After leaving the Petrified Forest, continuing north, brings you to several roadside sites. This spot along the highway has some spectacular multicolored hills.

A few miles down the road you come to another ancient Indian village.

And at the village are these petroglyths.

There were several other stops in the park with interesting features and eventually you get to the Painted Desert. This weird picture is not what I remember the colors to have been, but it is close. And my camera has never color faulted before. So I guess there was something going on with color and light on this day and time and subject that caused something to happen in the camera. Why there is a violet hue above the hills is beyond me.

Here’s another shot just a 100′ up the road and looking west instead of North.

After I got out of the park, and a few miles west on I-40, I stopped at a little town named Joseph City. There really isn’t much left of the town. It’s just barely hanging on and not much more then a wide spot on the freeway. I did find a nice little RV park there in town. The park was for sale so I wandered around the area on my bike checking out the possibilities. But the place was way overpriced. They were asking $450,000 for a property that should have been priced at under $100,000. They had a realtor from Flagstaff who convinced them it is worth more and I think they got greedy. The RV space rental was only $10.50 per night though. For all services including cable. Can’t beat that. And the Love’s fuel station in Joseph City was the lowest diesel fuel price I’d seen in months.

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Indiana onward to Quartzsite.

I was hired as a drive away driver by Classic Transport in Elkhart and spent 2 months, from late July to mid October, driving around the country delivering new vans, trucks, and cab-over trucks to various businesses. And once a Class C RV to a dealer. Mostly the rigs were UPS or FexEx trucks. Generally, no radio, cruise control or AC. And usually uncomfortable drivers seat. I traveled over 10,000 miles in the rigs, and the same amount in bus, train or plane on the trips back to home base. So 20,000 miles in 2 & 1/2 months. I had so much free time that it doesn’t seem like I traveled that much. But I kept records.

This business requires the driver to pay all the trip expenses, and then you are reimbursed for a portion of your fuel (as it usually works out that they pay less then the cost). The driver will also receive a fixed amount per mile for doing the driving. As you can imagine, if your expenses are to high, it can be touch and go whether or not you’ll make money. My gross income came to $7,000 for 2 months, but the net was only $2,000. So my expenses came to 70% of gross income. A 30% return. Better then a savings account and easy work too. (I haven’t figured taxes yet but they should be low). Some trips I netted 47% but others were much lower. The lowest return I made was -4.7%. Yes, I lost money on a trip to Toronto, Ontario, Canada. Of course I made several mistakes, including missing an exit and running out of fuel. If I did the same trip again, I think I could make 25% income or so. Canada is pretty expensive. Travel and learn…

One big thing I found while driving was that I love the train! What fun during the return trip. Low cost, often being the same as bus. Easy to make or change a reservation, fun to ride and watch the scenery, easy to stretch out and sleep (some trips took 3 & 1/2 days). OK to bring your own food and beer onboard, etc. I had been using the bus…what a nightmare. The train is the only way to go. As they say on SNL, “Amtrak, the travel choice if you’re carrying weed”. But no, I didn’t see anyone doing that.

I didn’t have the room to take a camera with me, you must travel light, I used one carry on luggage sized backpack/wheeled bag. I had to have a blow up mattress and a blanket, plus clothes for all seasons, plus shaving kit, phone, etc. No room for my camera. So I didn’t get any pictures of my adventures on the road. Neither did I get any of my stay in Elkhart. There really isn’t much in Elkhart that is worthy of a picture. The 3rd month I spent in Elkhart I was nursing a back problem so I didn’t get out much then either.

I resigned my association with Classic Transport in mid October and headed out of town on my way to Quartzsite, Arizona. But first I got lost…

I use a program named MS Streets & Trips 2002 that I had gotten free at Lake Tahoe. Usually it was accurate enough for my travels around the US but it lead me wrong on my way out of Indiana. I was trying to bypass the major portion of the toll hiway into Illinois to save some bucks. Well, I did accomplish that, but the misdirection by the program cost me an extra 4 hours of driving time. Damn Microsoft.

So, since I’m four hours late, I arrive at my son-in-law and daughters farm in the dark. I’m driving down the gravel road, and since they haven’t cut down the damn weeds from in front of their driveway sign, I miss the turn and float out onto thick, sticky, clay infused mud! I get 100′ into this stuff before I realize that I ain’t goin’ no further. And that I can’t turn around or back up. So I spend the night there at a steep angle in the mud, next to a 12′ deep ditch. While I’m walking around the rig inspecting, the damn mud is sticking to my shoes. Ended up with 10 pounds of mud I had to scrape off before I could get back in. Next morning I get my bearings and find that I can walk to their place (didn’t know that the night before, I was a little lost). So I walk up there and bitch them out for ignoring me the night before when I heard them drive into their driveway (didn’t know it was them at the time – and they had to have seen my rig, it’s huge!). Since Brett has lots of experience with getting stuck in this mud from outer space, I take his advice, wait two days while the mud dries and finally with his Dodge Ram 4 wheel drive truck, we pull out the rig. Like I said, it was right next to a 12′ drop off so we were all a little worried. And it rained later that night. Whew. But I forgot to take a picture. Damn.

After spending a few days there, I head off south westy taking the most back roads I can. Of course the MS program lead me wrong from about 3 miles away from the farm, but I wasn’t in a hurry and didn’t care. I wandered around like an idiot (IOWA) for several hours before the map and reality started to agree. Then…zoom! Off down the road. Funny that once I got out of Iowa, I was never just wandering again. The maps and reality always agreed. Guess it’s true what they say about Iowa.

There weren’t any cool pictures to take on this portion of the trip. I discovered that Missouri, Kansas, Oklahoma, and the Texas top hat are not picture worthy. Even though I don’t have film anymore (digital camera), it still wasn’t worth taking any shots. I followed US-54 all the way to I-40. Then west to outside of Albuquerque. I stop in a little town named ‘Grants’ in New Mexico for a day.

When I leave Grants I head south on US-53. This takes me to the privately held Bandera Volcano and Ice Caves. The season was nearly over so I had the place pretty much to myself most of the day. I trekked the trails and got a few pictures but it was cloudy so they didn’t come out as well as hoped.

Here’s the access trail up to the caldera.

The caldera.

A collapsed lava tube.

Entering the ice cave.

And inside…the ice is actually 20′ thick. Little hard to see however.

After spending the morning at the volcano, I headed up the road to the El Morro site. The El Morro has been used probably for 12,000 years, as it is the best source of water for hundreds of miles around. As a result of that fact, there is ancient as well as recent carvings on the sandstone along its base. The little pond is the reason people have been stopping here. It was really interesting to be able to see a message left by people hundreds and thousands of years ago. The modern dated messages started with the Spanish from the 1500’s through to about 1790 and then Americans that traveled through in the 1800’s.

On the trail to El Morro. El Morro is that big mountain thing there. The whole thing. The dark streaks are water trails that drain into that fenced area at the bottom of the monolith. That’s the pond that attracted so many travelers over the centuries. The rose color of the trail is the result of using colored stone, found near here.

The pond. It isn’t a spring, just rainwater that drains down from the monolith. But it stays all year. It’s deep and nearly clear. Would be very refreshing to a desert traveler trying to get to California during the summer years ago. There is evidence that the ancient Indians built a dam here, old logs and rocks, to trap the water. It’s still working after a thousand years.

Little hard (or impossible) to see but this shot is of graffiti on the wall over there.

This is some of the really old graffiti. The darker writing was by the Spanish in 1609. The age of the other petroglyphs under the dark writing is unknown but could be 5,000 years old, more likely 1,200 or so.

After circling the base of the monolith and looking at all the old graffiti, I started up the trail heading towards the top of El Morro. This is a shot looking back on the trail. I liked that giant rock just hanging there, ready to drop over.

At the top of the monolith, is this box canyon. After you skirt around this canyon you climb a little more and find an ancient Indian village.

Anasazi once lived here and built this village on the top of El Morro. Note the style. Rectangular. Right next to this style, and used at the same time, are round structures. Then there are many other structures just beyond that have fallen to ground so they know that there were as many as 800 people living here once.

This is the kiva…

The ancestors of these people still live near here.
Here’s the plack.

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From Portland to Indiana

After the July 4th weekend and the great time we all had at Lake Billie Chinook, I headed to Indiana to try out a job as a ‘drive away driver’ for a firm in Elkhart, IN. Elkhart has a reputation as the RV capital of the world since it has several RV manufacturers there. There are also several companies there that have sprouted up in order to drive vehicles from the manufacturers to their purchasers. As well as several companies that specialise in new parts for older RVs.

I figured I could make a quick $3,000 driving for one of those companies, while during my off time I could wander around and find replacement parts for my RV.

But before I got to Elkhart, to take the test I needed to take, I had to drive there from Portland. I decided to take the northerly route using the interstates as seldom as possible. I started by heading east on I84 and then turned north at Biggs Junction. There’s a bridge there that crosses the Columbia and puts you on US97 heading north to Yakima. Once far enough north, I got on US2 and stayed on that highway all the way to Michigan. I did get a few pictures and had a great time at a couple bars along the way, saw a real wicked lightning storm over North Dakota, saw a few historic sites, etc.

Sunset at Holter Lake in Montana.

Holter Lake, Montana

Another view of Holter Lake.

Later on, in North Dakota, I found this place along US2. It has something to do with Lewis and Clark, I just don’t recall what it was. This is the Missouri River.

A couple of days later and I’m driving through areas like this in Minnesota. You could see for miles and miles and miles and miles…well, you get the idea.

Finally get to Wisconsin and find that I can’t see the great lake! US2 only goes right by it, it’s just that there are so many trees that you can just catch a glimpse or two as you drive by.

US2 goes right by three of the great lakes and crosses two of them. But because of the lack of good shots available from the highway, I didn’t get any pictures of Lake Superior except this one at Duluth.

Looking East toward Duluth from the hill overlooking Lake Superior

The next day I finally get to a place where I can actually take a picture or two and can get my feet wet. This is a shot I took while standing in 12″ of Lake Michigan, looking West. The water was surprisingly warm.

And the little park I stopped at.

This bridge crosses the narrow area between Lake Michigan and Lake Huron and from Wisconsin to Michigan, it was difficult to both drive and take a picture.

After crossing the bridge, I headed due south on I75. About half way to Grand Rapids, I ran into a freak sudden onset rain and lightening storm. It was so powerful that I bailed off the freeway at a rest stop. Parked the rig so I had the best view and let the storm roll over me. There were several motor cycles parked around but the riders had already found places to hide or I would have offered safe haven.

When I took this shot the lightening was hitting the area hard. There was a strike less then 100 yards away. And I parked just about 15′ below the crest of the hill this rest stop was built on. After about 1/2 hour, it rolled on northward and I headed on. About 6 hours later I was in Indiana, and 2 hours after that, parked at a RV park in Elkhart.

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At Portland July, 2005

I didn’t take many pictures after getting to I-5 since it was a straight shot to Portland, and I’ve seen it all a million times. But after I got to Portland, turned out that a bunch of my friends were headed to Lake Billie Chinook east of Portland for a 5 day party. So, well, I just had to go. These are a few pictures from that trip. Over the July 4th weekend. Two of my friends own property up there so finding a place to stay was easy.

The lake front dock where we launched the boats, that’s TJ standing above the dock.

The lake front dock where we launched the boats, that

TJ tries to win at Bingo. Nope, never happened.

TJ tries to win at Bingo

Millie, Gordon, Jack, Linda.

Jack, Linda, etc.

Here we are just hanging…stopped for a rest break. We waited out the cops. They were checking for boat issues. We tried to avoid letting them discover that everyone (except me) was drunk or on their way.

Here we are just hanging...stopped for a rest break.

An actual view of the lake!

Later that night, after a great freshly caught salmon dinner…

Campfire

Posted in Lake Billie Chinok | 2 Comments

On the road North.

After spending 6 weeks at Lake Tahoe, I planned to head north to Portland, OR. I asked the locals and got several comments that Highway 89 wasn’t suitable for a 37′ RV, to many tight turns or something. I tried it anyway and didn’t really have any trouble. It would have been nasty if it had been snowing though. My plan was to follow 89 North, passed Lake Almanor, then through Lassen Volcanic National Park (no need to make this place a destination). It turned out that I spent the night at McCloud and the next day got onto I-5 just below Weed. Then I just stay on I-5 all the way to Portland. Just a short little backwoods trip.

Here’s a shot of Lake Tahoe from the West side of the lake, from Highway 89. This was taken from an outlook that has a trail to another ‘historic’ home, built at considerable cost and difficulty by another rich lady from San Francisco in the ’40’s. I’d had my fill of historic houses while staying at Lake Tahoe so I didn’t bother to make the trip down the trail.

Lake Tahoe from 89...

This is one of many stream that feed Lake Tahoe…I stopped here because it had been a long period of winding around curves and I was needing a break. Not a very good picture, but the river was pretty cool.

Finally reached a place that I can really appreciate…

Here I am at Lassen Volcano Nat. Park.

When I reached McArthur Burney SP, I intended to spend the night at the camp grounds but I couldn’t find a space where I could fit the rig. But I did have time to take a hike to the Falls. Had a neat loop trail back to the campground.

Posted in Tahoe to Portland | 1 Comment

More from Lake Tahoe

While I was at Tahoe, I worked as a volunteer at the Tallac National Historic Site, and I was assigned to fix this double gate into the ‘bone yard’, which is the fenced area that the scrap wood is kept. It was sagging badly and scraped the ground, was wobbly and basically falling apart. It had been repaired last year but it was too far gone to save, so I built a new set of gates. The gate posts were put in new last year and were still strong, I should have swapped them out for 4 X 6’s but decided against it since they seemed so strong.

Here’s another view of the gates.

A close up of the gates, note the 2 X 4 on the left bending from the weight.

This is a shot inside the carpentry shop where I built the new gates. This is the only shot I got of them, had camera problems.

On Edit: The next year (’06), I took some pictures of the gates I finished in ’05.

I tried to arrange the gate structure so I had nice big triangles to support the long swing arm. I used 2″ X 6″ lumber in a couple places to add strength.

Here’s how they look, note there’s no droop at all after hanging for nearly a year.

Posted in More from Lake Tahoe | 1 Comment

At Lake Tahoe

It’s now June and I’ve been at Lake Tahoe for 3 weeks. This place is the best, but some stuff is expensive. Like tourist expensive. It took some skill on my part to find the stores that offered the bargains. One example: close to where I was, within a mile, there was a ‘Medieval Faire’ set up. I walked over to the faire one fine Saturday and started to walk in. I was stopped and asked for my ticket. I didn’t have one so I ask “how much is the ticket”? The gate keeper answers $20.

So I ask, “What’s inside the faire that’s worth $20?”

She answers, “Oh, there’s food”.

I ask, “Don’t I have to pay for that?”

She answers, “Yes. Oh, there’s beer”, she says.

“Don’t I have to pay for that too?”, I ask.

“Yes”, she answers. But she can’t tell me what’s in the faire that might even be close to being worth the $20 ticket. In fact, she had never been into one of these yearly ‘faires’, just worked at them at the gate. She suggested I check at the ticket booth for more specific information.

Needless to say, I don’t go to the faire. Even the nearby ‘Information Booth’ can’t tell me what’s at the faire that might be worth $20 to see, and the information guy had never been to it either.

So, I don’t have any pictures from the faire. And from what I can see from the outside (they had 5′ high fences!) it’s just a bunch of little stalls where they sell you stuff. It damn sure ain’t worth $20 to see a bunch of retailers trying to sell me something while they are wearing 1400’s type clothes. Big deal. And that’s all there was to it. No rides or nuttin. Someone later mumbled that they had little period plays once an hour for free. Again…big deal. So instead I went to a local bar right on Lake Tahoe and had a great steak dinner. With spectacular view.

Here’s another shot of the beach after the snow melted. Looking south. If you look carefully you can just make out a building or two in South Lake Tahoe. It’s built up with casinos and multi-story hotels.

The weather is now warm and sunny so I take another trip down to the wetlands. Of course this is a wetland so there’s water. Sometimes to much.

Damn, here it comes again…

And then it goes…this house was the subject of a field trip we took. It’s been gifted to the forest service so they maintain it as a tourist destination.

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On the Road to Tahoe.

After spending two, three weeks at Mush’s farm house, I left to go to Lake Tahoe and work there at the Tallac National Historic Site as a volunteer. As I was leaving I took a pix of the old barn across the road from her farm.

After crossing the Missouri, I was on Interstate 680 I think, I stopped at the aerospace museum.

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A couple of days pass before I take anymore pixs.

I spent the night at a city park somewhere…and they had some animals hanging around. Took a shot of this elk, poor guy, no females, look how his coat is all shaggy.

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The next day I got into SLC, and the day after headed out passed SL. I stopped at a rest stop that overlooks the lake. The white is all dry salt.

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I’m in Nevada and this rain storm pops up…I like storms.

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An hour later and it looked like this.

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A day or two later, I’m heading up the mountains outside of Reno, NV. After cresting the mountains, I start dropping into the large bowl that holds Lake Tahoe. About a mile or two out of the first town is the park from where I took these photos…

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The evening of the day I got to Tahoe was cool, not cold, but sometime during the night, it did this…

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So, I took a walking tour of the grounds around the Tallac National Historic Site. I’ll be working here as a volunteer. Carpentry, electrical, etc. Whatever they want me to do. But during the off time, what views, this place is a gem.

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I can’t tell you how spectacular this place is. I’ve never been here until now but, like all of us, I have heard about it all my life.

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This is the front door to the museum at Tallac. We (the volunteers) had our lounge here. Computer, coffee maker, mailboxes, etc. The building is two stories. The main room is behind the door there with a huge fireplace on the north wall.

Front door.

This is the beach in front of the ‘home’ of the Baldwin’s (original owners), where I’ll be working. Looking north.

A few days later, the snow was gone, the weather was much warmer and we went to a nearby lake, Fallen Leaf Lake, to open some buildings meant to house the national guard crew that was coming up to work on the museums roof. The electric service wasn’t ready for them so they stayed in a local motel for two weeks instead. Cost the Forest Service a bundle.

Perhaps I take a break from work to pee…or not.

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This is some of the crew, the two in front are Allie and Mike, they’re both Forest Service employees, the two in back are volunteers, Mel and what’s-his-name. We spent several hours opening and cleaning and fixing stuff here, all to have it go unused for weeks. Because the electrical contractor hadn’t finished a rewiring job started the previous fall.

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This is the wetland close to the Tallac site. The FS is trying to reclaim the area and let it do it’s job of cleansing the water that flows into Lk Tahoe. It’s in pretty good shape now.

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There are trails that wind around the area and there is a ‘Stream Profile’ house that is below ground next to the stream so you can get a cross section view of the stream (it’s too big to be called a creek but to small to call a river). Oh, and you’ll see some fish too. I also saw some chicken wire wrapped around trees near the stream but the beavers just climbed up on the wire and cut down the trees anyway. There were about 6-7 trees felled that way near the profile house. The FS captured them and moved them someplace.

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More wetlands…

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