A: House repairs & fixes…


Awning Issues


Back Up Camera


Electrical Issues – 120 Vac System


Electrical Issues – 12 Volt System


Kwikee Two Step assembly


Refer Issues, Operation, and DIY Mods


Refer Fan DIY Installation


Double Paned Windows – Leak Repair


Paint Job


Water Leaks – Plumbing issues


Water Heater…


Water Pump Repair…


Roof Repairs


Uncategorized House Issues

 


 

15 Responses to A: House repairs & fixes…

  1. Ron Johnson says:

    Excellent site. I’ve got a 96 Bounder 36Z. Am currently working to fix similar issues – fogged windows, non-working water heater & refer.

    Not a full timer yet. Will retire in a couple of years. Working to get bugs out of the Bounder before then.

    Ron Johnson

    Thanks, Ron. Always appreciate new readers. Hope my RV repair stories gave you some insight with your rig. Good luck.

  2. Keith DeKraker says:

    The window repair thread was very good. While reading it a thought came to mind of using aluminum foil tape instead of duct tape . My experience has been that it is stickier, water proof and doesn’t dry out like duct tape.
    Keep up the articles.
    KDK

    That’s a good idea, I’ll try it the next time I pull out a window…I still haven’t gotten to the bedroom window, since I hardly open the shades back there.

  3. John Hobbs says:

    Jim, Nice writeup on the window repair. I have often wondered about doing something like this for double paned windows but haven’t really had the need to. I always thought about drilling the holes and using a air conditioning vacuum pump to pull a vacuum and boil the moisture out. Might try one of these days.

    Keep it going.

    John Hobbs

    The problem I see with pulling a vacuum is that there is already a leak, that’s why you’d be working on the window. But if the leak is small enough, and your vacuum pump big enough, that might not be a problem. If you ever try it, come back and let us know how it worked! Thanks.

  4. Jerry Padbury says:

    This was great instruction. Well explained. The window portion is just what I was looking for. I don’t wish you any further problems, but if you have them, let us all know. You are truly a handyman.

    Thanks for the kind words, Jerry.

  5. Terry Landis says:

    I have a 95 36’ DP that looks just like yours. Love reading all your articles and repair advice. I’m recently retired and new to motor homes and if I get my act together I will be heading down the Alcan soon to full time it in warmer places.

    Have a safe trip. Watch out for those damn construction areas. Oh, and make sure your tires are in very good shape.

    I wanted to let you know I have the same window fogging issue. It was on the drivers’ side window. I wasn’t able to have it replaced just now, so I decided to switch the passengers’ side with the drives side. I only had to take apart the inside screws and slide out the rubber guide material. Once this is out you can lift the window out of the jam by spreading the widow jam and prying the top of the window out. I didn’t have to remove the window frame like you did.

    Interesting method, but taking the entire window out allows you to look for seal breaches around the window and seal them up as needed. If you see evidence of water having been in the bottom channel of the window, that suggests you need to reseal around the window too.

    I was told by a local glass repair shop that if they had the right size material they could take apart the windows and re-seal them using the same glass. I will look into that when I make it to the lower 48.

    I’m aware of a company down in Florida that does that kind of work for around $200 per window. My method doesn’t cost anything as a DIY job.

    I was wondering if you have had the same problem I have with my screen door and main door and the magnets missing. I bought some magnets from the local hardware store, but they don’t really seem to work well at holding the screen door together to the outside door. Every time I open the door the screen door stays closed….

    I don’t know about this problem, my screen door has a latch that holds it closed or attached to the door. If I open the door, the screen follows. I have to unlatch it and pull it closed, it then latches to a latch on the frame.

    I will continue reading all your great articles and thanks again for taking the time to write them…Terry

    Thanks!

  6. Joel aka. 1/2canadian says:

    Confusion here; the blog says Walla Walla to Portland, Sept. ’09, and shows summertime photos of family, but is dated Dec. 11th. Hope you’ve already made it to Portland, cuz you don’t wanna be headed this way this weekend Jim. Freezin’ rain and snow in Stump Town, and reckon the Gorge and points east, even Walla Walla, will not be RV friendly.

    Yeah, Dec. 11th is when I posted it. I’m behind in my posting mainly because I’m dependent on others to fix problems with my blog. Recently, it was an issue with uploading pictures. Round and round we went trying to get it working right. It seems OK now but it might break again next month. I did find, after hours of trying, a work around for that issue.
    Then I normally don’t post immediately. I let the stuff roll around in my head for a while before writing.
    I have already left Portland. I’m now down in the SW desert in Columbus, NM. Weather was great on the trip, if a bit chilly.

  7. david says:

    wow, i have a lot to learn, and fortunately a brain to learn it in. thanks for your thorough and detailed tips.

    You are very welcome, David. If there’s anything I can help with, just shoot me an email and I’ll try.

  8. J.C. Randall says:

    This may be an old thread but has a lot of useful information. Thanks for all the tips.

    You are very welcome. Keeping these older rigs running has it’s moments though. I’m dealing with a leaking differential now.

  9. Mark says:

    Jim — I can honestly say this is the most useful website i have come across in hours of trawling…. I have just purchased a 1995 32′ bounder, first RV, want to get into inexpensively to start. I am pretty handy, and tackle most, if not all jobs around the house and boat. The fogging window is a nightmare! right on the drivers side. Your method is one for sure I will be tackling – probably today…I have a lot of hard water staining, so i figure i will need to ‘wash it out with a vinegar solution until clean, flush with pure water and then dry etc..
    Thanks Jim…
    Mark

    You are welcome, Mark. I have had to redo my passengers window again but it only takes a hour, so not too bad a job. Once every 3-4 years isn’t to bad either. Did it up in Alaska before heading down Sept. ’11 and although the window definitely wasn’t as bad as it was when I first did it, Aug. ’07, it had become annoying. I still think I had to redo that window because I didn’t run the pump and heat the window long enough. The small window I did in ’07 is still clear as crystal.

    I don’t have the hard water staining (how can it be that since it’s usually rainwater moisture that gets in there?) but if I ever do get those streaks I’ll try the vinegar solution…I was thinking of CLR but vinegar would probably work too. Sometimes those streaks look like they’re between the panes but are really on the outside pane.

    One big caveat, I’m not much of a caulker and whenever I remove a window, the outside caulking needs to be redone on the top and both sides. I’ve also had a case where the caulking just went bad and had to be redone. When I do it, it always seems to leak. So I redo the redo. Still leaks. Damnit. Minor leaks, but still annoying. Right now (Nov. ’11) I’m outside of Portland, Oregon and I had to run clear packing tape across the top of the window to get it to stop leaking during the 3″ rain event we’re having. When I find someone that’ll trade a beer or three for a good re-caulking, that problem should be solved. Ahh, fun.

    Come back and let us know how it works for you! Thanks.

  10. Mark says:

    Jim — My window was too badly ‘scarred’- literally, the inside was so calcified over the years, even Muriatic acid wouldn’t remove it. I ended up breaking the inside pane — carefully of course, but still to noavail. Fortunately i tracked the manufacturer down (Atwood)and they were the original suppliers, so an easy order – albeit $300 for the drivers side as both are in bad shape. Just need the slider on the passenger side ($175) so sort of ouch, but its not pleasant driving at the moment!!

    Hmmm, I’m surprised that your solution of Muriatic acid had no or little effect. Perhaps the solution was too weak?

    Glass is very resistant to all sorts of chemicals and those calcium deposits should have dissolved into that acid solution. I’m confused by the apparent failure of Muriatic acid.

    I’m wondering if you tried using vinegar instead if that would have made a difference.

  11. Steve says:

    Jim – Have you any information on the Milwaukee Cylinder hydraulic leveling system? I have a 1994 Bounder and the motor on the leveling system is not working and I was wondering if you knew anything about those.
    Thanks!

    Sorry for the delay, Steve, I just noticed your comment.

    The Power Gear system (Milwaukee Cylinder) of this era is, in my opinion, quite a good system. And simple. If you don’t have the manual, you can download it here: Power Gear

    and enter this keyword into search: 82-L0051-00.pdf.

    With that in hand, you can probably easily determine if it’s a low battery (common cause), bad connection (next most common cause), bad solenoid (next most common), or bad motor (not likely). All it takes is a jumper wire or cable. Of course, check fluid level first. Those controllers under the dash are pretty reliable, but they can die. If your tests above don’t pan out, check the fuse to the controller first, the cabling for damaged or broken wires, and clean the contacts.

  12. Vince Scoggins says:

    Driver and passenger windows are fogged/ chalky looking–a guy that works on my RV says he can take them apart, have a glass co. cut new ones fairly cheap-but they wont be tinted–what do you think?–Vince

    Sorry, Vince. I missed your comment…anyway, what I think is that it’s pretty easy as a DIY project. But, having someone else do it has it’s advantages.

  13. I do not know whether it’s just me or if perhaps everyone else encountering issues with your website. It appears as though some of the written text within your content are running off the screen. Can someone else please provide feedback and let me know if this is happening to them as well? This could be a problem with my internet browser because I’ve had this happen before.
    Thanks

    Don’t know what to tell you Darrin. I haven’t had a complaint (until yours) since I went to the new skin 3-4 months ago. I’m thinking that it’s on your end. Perhaps try a different browser? Or a setting in your current browser?

  14. Van says:

    Can’t get the radio out of the dash on my 03 Bounder. Have the correct tools; but, can’t get the sides to unlock. Need to get to the back of the backup monitor as it seems to have a loose connection. Any ideas?

    Those radio cubbies can be a bear sometimes. The good news is that they are all standard so we’re probably talking about the same thing. The radio slides into a metal case (a cubbie) that’s mounted into a cutout in the dash. The radio has a latching tab on either side that must be depressed in order to slide the radio out of the cubbie. The latching tabs are accessible when the faceplate is removed.

    If you have the tools made to depress the tabs, and it just won’t budge, I can think of several things: 1) The metal case of the radio is slightly rusted to the cubbies case. Sliding a putty knife between the radio and the cubbie could loosen it up enough to remove it. 2) The cubbie case was jammed in there because the cutout was too small, causing a constriction which jambs the radio in there really tight. In that case, carefully prying on the accessible face of the radio is about the only way to get it out, unless you can access the back of the radio and can push on it with something at the same time. 3) The installer routed the wire bundle in such a way as to clamp it in place without enough slack. In order to avoid breaking the connector, or pulling wires out of the connector, it’s best to access the back of the radio somehow and ensure that the wire bundle has enough slack. (It almost certainly does, but it should be checked).

    That’s about all I can think of at the moment. I’ve done several radio removals and each was different and presented it’s own set of problems but eventually they did come out without ruining anything. Just take your time and be careful with it. Keep in mind that they are made to be removed.

    • Van says:

      Thanks for the info. I’ll give the putty knife a try. I have tried to get to the back of the radio, but it is a real PITA laying on my back with just enough room to get one hand in the BIG (lol) access hole. The disgusting part of the whole deal is that the radio in my Ford Explorer is the same type and it was easy to replace when needed.
      By the way, I commend you on this site. It is one of the best on the web!

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